I usually dont just post a photo or video on my blog, but you should see this video of a close call of a surfer and a whale...
See video here
Tuesday, 8 November 2011
Monday, 7 November 2011
What do photographers "really do" ?
I read this post on TWITTER the other day and it made me laugh... it was a pie chart comparing (1) what people think the life of a professional photographer is all about to (2) what running a photography business really entails.
The difference was the amusing part…
People think that a photographer’s life is made up of the following:
5% of their time is spent travelling to exotic destinations to work
15% of their time is spend partying like a rockstar
80% of their time is spent on editing and taking photos.
The reality is that we spend way more time with a workload like this:
4% of our time is spent doing maintenance on printers, cameras, tripods and computers
5% of our time is spent focusing on networking (although we are always really doing this)
5% of our time is spent on advertising and marketing
6% of our time is spent processing print orders and doing lab work
9% of our time is spent doing social media and blogging
9% of our time is spend doing bookkeeping and taxes
10% of our time is spent doing album design and production
10% of our time we are communicating with clients
13% of our time is actually taking photos, the thing we all love to do
29% of our time is spent editing photos and uploading them onto the computer.
Thoughts???
The difference was the amusing part…
People think that a photographer’s life is made up of the following:
5% of their time is spent travelling to exotic destinations to work
15% of their time is spend partying like a rockstar
80% of their time is spent on editing and taking photos.
The reality is that we spend way more time with a workload like this:
4% of our time is spent doing maintenance on printers, cameras, tripods and computers
5% of our time is spent focusing on networking (although we are always really doing this)
5% of our time is spent on advertising and marketing
6% of our time is spent processing print orders and doing lab work
9% of our time is spent doing social media and blogging
9% of our time is spend doing bookkeeping and taxes
10% of our time is spent doing album design and production
10% of our time we are communicating with clients
13% of our time is actually taking photos, the thing we all love to do
29% of our time is spent editing photos and uploading them onto the computer.
Thoughts???
Friday, 4 November 2011
Starting your own photography business by creating a BRAND around your name
I was talking to one photographer that other day that basically said that starting a photography business was as easy as buying a camera, renting studio space and then taking bookings from the lines of people hoping that you’ll take their photograph. I asked him how his customers are going to find him and his response was, “I know I am a good photographer and I will just buy keywords on Google.”
Another landscape photographer went into this long dissertation that he was going to apply to be sponsored by a manufacturer, travel the world taking images and sell them to companies in the tourism industry. When I asked this person how he was going to be sponsored, his response, “I know a guy at Nikon and he said he will make an introduction. “
While both goals are admirable, it really is not that easy, never has been, and definitely never will be. As I am sure some of you who are reading this know by now.
So, what is the secret sauce in building a photography business? For me it’s about “branding you, the person” properly. Of course there is the creation of the marketing plans, price sheets, a portfolio, website, joining associations and also networking. Those are the must have’s… you can learn about how to do those on any number of sites. What I want to discuss here is separating your “BRAND” from the hoards of competition out there.
There have been a lot of very talented photographers that have failed in this business; conversely, there are some successful photography businesses that succeeded even though they were not top notch photographers. The difference is that the successful photography business was run by a much more efficient marketer and business person.
Don’t get me wrong, you still need talent, you need to be schooled and you need to invest heavily in this passion. Someone once told me that you need to take more than 25,000 photos before you have learned the basics, another 25,000 to get proficient at taking a quality photo, and another 25,000 to get to the level where you can call yourself an accomplished photographer. I laughed when I heard it, 75,000 photos… “Come On”… but I counted the images on my external hard drives the other day. It was cause for another laugh… “that ole fella knew what he was talking about”, I thought.
I have taken more than 80,000 images and you can see the progression as the years have gone buy. It’s not the number of photographs; it’s the practice and repetition that crafted my skills.
OK, back to the separation of photography skills and business skills. My advice… put your ego and photography aptitude on the shelf for a minute… Let’s discuss business building skills and how to separate the business you from the photographer in you. How we are going to accomplish this is by creating an approachable brand around your name.
The more you give, the more you will receive
Ohhhhhh how I firmly believe this is pinnacle to your long term success. This theme is in almost all my points here. I am a firm believer in giving of your time and products to create long term sustainable relationships that will help you in the long run. A little goodwill now will pay off in the long run.
Be the recognized expert
Be the person that people know they can come to for answers or ideas. If people start associating you with a genre of photography you will create that top of mind awareness you need… then when they think of a photographer when they want to spend money, you will come to mind first. This isn’t about always being selling… this is about always being helpful, a long term business strategy
Learn from the best
Look at a couple successful photographers. Find out how they got to where they are today… don’t be afraid to ask them. They will give you at least some guidance.
Emulate success; don’t try to reinvent the wheel here… this has been attempted many, MANY times before you, if there was a better way, it would have been tried already… so emulate the people who carved out the path.
Press the flesh
Get out there and meet people, and when you do, give them your business card. When you put a face to a company name it will go a long way and making people remember you.
Let them see you everywhere
Here are some ideas to help you get your work out there… (1) go to local coffee shops and find out the process to hang your images in their coffee shops, (2) go see local banks and offer to hang images of the local area in the local branches, (3) investigate local art tours where people go and visit homes or galleries to see local artists, (4) give away images to friends and family to hang in their homes.
To get yourself out there, (1) you can join local photo clubs to network with other local photographers and find out other ways to help you grow your business, (2) get involved with charities and offer to take portraits for the less fortunate before X-Mas, (3) offer your services to the local government or heritage committees for free.
Social marketing is all about relationships built on trust
Facebook, Google+, Twitter, each are online social marketing tools. But they are not a place for hard selling of your product or services. They are a social community where people go to have fun and they do not want to be sold when they are there. These places are an avenue for you to just put your services and products out there for people to see. If people have all the information of your services and products, see that you are personable and available, and your products and services are what they want, they will come to you.
To sell your products and services online use keyword buys on the search engines to target potential customers searching for your products or services. Your website is for this as well. The website is your number one tool, IMO, to attract the maximum amount of clients. It is your online business card. The more people you drive to it, the more successful you will be. It’s a numbers game.
Social networking sites also offer excellent search engine optimization advancements for your website… something you should become intimate with. (Lots to discuss in this area but its a blog entry into itself)
Persistence Wears Resistance
Never give up. You will put in a lot of work, give away a lot of free photos and offer a lot of advice before this pays off… but it will. One day the flood gates will open up and you will look back and be thankful all this hard work was done.
This is where people fall down. They don’t see the immediate payoff. So just be patient.
I am not saying that this is all you have to do… far from it. What I am talking about is the icing on the cake. You still need a traditional and online marketing plan, a sales plan, talk to the banks, create a business identity, create the right website, price your images and services properly… and, of course, always be growing as a great photographer.
What I covered here are just the extra things that will separate you from the others that think that this is easy. Remember what the guy said in the first paragraph? He said, “I know I am a good photographer and I will just buy keywords on Google.”
I know if you follow my advice you will be one of those photographers that this guy looks at while he scratches his head wondering where he went wrong.
Good luck,
Kev
Another landscape photographer went into this long dissertation that he was going to apply to be sponsored by a manufacturer, travel the world taking images and sell them to companies in the tourism industry. When I asked this person how he was going to be sponsored, his response, “I know a guy at Nikon and he said he will make an introduction. “
While both goals are admirable, it really is not that easy, never has been, and definitely never will be. As I am sure some of you who are reading this know by now.
So, what is the secret sauce in building a photography business? For me it’s about “branding you, the person” properly. Of course there is the creation of the marketing plans, price sheets, a portfolio, website, joining associations and also networking. Those are the must have’s… you can learn about how to do those on any number of sites. What I want to discuss here is separating your “BRAND” from the hoards of competition out there.
There have been a lot of very talented photographers that have failed in this business; conversely, there are some successful photography businesses that succeeded even though they were not top notch photographers. The difference is that the successful photography business was run by a much more efficient marketer and business person.
Don’t get me wrong, you still need talent, you need to be schooled and you need to invest heavily in this passion. Someone once told me that you need to take more than 25,000 photos before you have learned the basics, another 25,000 to get proficient at taking a quality photo, and another 25,000 to get to the level where you can call yourself an accomplished photographer. I laughed when I heard it, 75,000 photos… “Come On”… but I counted the images on my external hard drives the other day. It was cause for another laugh… “that ole fella knew what he was talking about”, I thought.
I have taken more than 80,000 images and you can see the progression as the years have gone buy. It’s not the number of photographs; it’s the practice and repetition that crafted my skills.
OK, back to the separation of photography skills and business skills. My advice… put your ego and photography aptitude on the shelf for a minute… Let’s discuss business building skills and how to separate the business you from the photographer in you. How we are going to accomplish this is by creating an approachable brand around your name.
The more you give, the more you will receive
Ohhhhhh how I firmly believe this is pinnacle to your long term success. This theme is in almost all my points here. I am a firm believer in giving of your time and products to create long term sustainable relationships that will help you in the long run. A little goodwill now will pay off in the long run.
Be the recognized expert
Be the person that people know they can come to for answers or ideas. If people start associating you with a genre of photography you will create that top of mind awareness you need… then when they think of a photographer when they want to spend money, you will come to mind first. This isn’t about always being selling… this is about always being helpful, a long term business strategy
Learn from the best
Look at a couple successful photographers. Find out how they got to where they are today… don’t be afraid to ask them. They will give you at least some guidance.
Emulate success; don’t try to reinvent the wheel here… this has been attempted many, MANY times before you, if there was a better way, it would have been tried already… so emulate the people who carved out the path.
Press the flesh
Get out there and meet people, and when you do, give them your business card. When you put a face to a company name it will go a long way and making people remember you.
Let them see you everywhere
Here are some ideas to help you get your work out there… (1) go to local coffee shops and find out the process to hang your images in their coffee shops, (2) go see local banks and offer to hang images of the local area in the local branches, (3) investigate local art tours where people go and visit homes or galleries to see local artists, (4) give away images to friends and family to hang in their homes.
To get yourself out there, (1) you can join local photo clubs to network with other local photographers and find out other ways to help you grow your business, (2) get involved with charities and offer to take portraits for the less fortunate before X-Mas, (3) offer your services to the local government or heritage committees for free.
Social marketing is all about relationships built on trust
Facebook, Google+, Twitter, each are online social marketing tools. But they are not a place for hard selling of your product or services. They are a social community where people go to have fun and they do not want to be sold when they are there. These places are an avenue for you to just put your services and products out there for people to see. If people have all the information of your services and products, see that you are personable and available, and your products and services are what they want, they will come to you.
To sell your products and services online use keyword buys on the search engines to target potential customers searching for your products or services. Your website is for this as well. The website is your number one tool, IMO, to attract the maximum amount of clients. It is your online business card. The more people you drive to it, the more successful you will be. It’s a numbers game.
Social networking sites also offer excellent search engine optimization advancements for your website… something you should become intimate with. (Lots to discuss in this area but its a blog entry into itself)
Persistence Wears Resistance
Never give up. You will put in a lot of work, give away a lot of free photos and offer a lot of advice before this pays off… but it will. One day the flood gates will open up and you will look back and be thankful all this hard work was done.
This is where people fall down. They don’t see the immediate payoff. So just be patient.
I am not saying that this is all you have to do… far from it. What I am talking about is the icing on the cake. You still need a traditional and online marketing plan, a sales plan, talk to the banks, create a business identity, create the right website, price your images and services properly… and, of course, always be growing as a great photographer.
What I covered here are just the extra things that will separate you from the others that think that this is easy. Remember what the guy said in the first paragraph? He said, “I know I am a good photographer and I will just buy keywords on Google.”
I know if you follow my advice you will be one of those photographers that this guy looks at while he scratches his head wondering where he went wrong.
Good luck,
Kev
Thursday, 27 October 2011
You don't take a photograph, you make it. - Ansel Adams
In order to take a great landscape photograph I believe you have to capture the spirit of a location. But in order to do that you have to use different techniques to truly achieve this.
I always say that nature is rarely perfect. Your images need a helping hand and with the right technique you give yourself the best chance of taking one of those shots you want to show off to the world.
The landscape photography tips below will help you make more of the photo opportunities that you'll come across when you are in search of that perfect landscape photograph.
1. If you have a DSLR camera that gives you control over settings such as shutter speed, aperture and exposure values “EV”, set your camera on “Aperture Priority” and use a small aperture of f/16 or f/20. This will let you keep everything in focus and the camera will set your shutter speed automatically. For the advanced photographer, use your manual settings and adjust your EV setting to achieve proper exposure after you set your aperture and desired shutter speed.
2. Early morning and late evening are the best times for shooting landscapes. Blue hour photography and golden hour photography are the only time I venture out to take my landscape images. The reasons; the sun is not as harsh as a stronger high sun and the low angle of the sun reveals shadows and textures.
3. The best landscapes are rarely found at the side of the road. So be prepared to go for a hike with a map or a GPS Unit in an effort to seek out the most interesting locations that not everyone takes a photo of. You can also download Photographers Ephemeris and do some pre-planning before you leave home.
4. Wide angle lenses are commonly used for landscapes because they will allow you to include more in the frame and open up the vertical perspective. But, the wide angle lens pushes the scene away… you can also consider using a longer focal length lens and compressing the depth of just a part of the entire scene.
5. If shooting the entire scene before you, whenever possible, place something of interest in the foreground of the shot to create a sense of depth. At the same time, ensure that you use that small aperture to keep everything in focus.
If you do not have something to ground the scene, focus one third up from the bottom of the image. This way you will maximize focus of the entire scene.
6. Another great but simple landscape photography tip is to anchor your camera to a tripod to slow down your pace of working when shooting landscapes. This means you'll take fewer but better pictures.
Also, if you are shooting in low light your exposure times will be elongated, forcing you to mount the camera to eliminate camera shake.
7. Carry a cable release. The timer function on the camera is no substitute for a cable release, BTW. The cable allows you the release the shutter when YOU want to release the shutter, not 2 sec or 10 sec or 15 sec from when you want to release. The release makes it so you don't have to touch the camera at all which will definitely minimize camera shake...especially important for those longer exposure shots. As an aside, if your camera allows it, use the mirror lock up function.
8. Keep on the lookout for scenes that will let you crop the top and bottom of the image to produce a more dramatic panoramic composition.
9. Use a circular polarizing filter to darken the sky and saturate the colors in the landscape (this is the one must-have filter for landscape photographers).
10. Meter your scene and use graduated grey or neutral density filters to darken the sky and reduce the contrast between the landscape and the sky. Polarizing filters aren't much use for bright cloudy skies but graduated filters are. Frequently, the sky looks burned out in photos because your digital sensors don't have the range to record the brightness differences between it and darker foreground scenery.
11. Use color correction filters to change the color of light on a landscape. These filters can either warm up the landscape or cool it down, depending on the filter color used. In this image, a sepia graduated filter was used upside-down to color the foreground rocks only.
You can either do this in the camera or you can do this in Photoshop later.
12. Try using a soft focus filter to add an ethereal quality to the scene. These filters blur the bright areas of a scene into the shadows to give the image a glow.
Again, you can do this in the camera or apply the soft focus after with gaussian blur in Photoshop
13. If you’re up for experimentation, try making your own filters. There's never a guarantee you'll get good results, but your photos will certainly look different. You can make a filter out of anything that's at least partially transparent - a bit of old stocking, Vaseline rubbed on an old filter (don't ever rub Vaseline directly onto a lens - you'll ruin it permanently!) Or you could try breathing gently on your lens (in cool conditions) to get a soft-focus effect.
14. Use the Hyperfocal distance to obtain the fastest shutter speed with greatest depth of field. Hyperfocal allows you to get everything sharp, from things close up to the camera to those far away. It's more reliable than just setting the focus at infinity. You will need a camera that allows manual focusing though. Click here to learn what Hyperfocal distance is.
15. Shoot RAW images rather than JPGs. The RAW image will take up more room on your memory card but the RAW image will give you greater latitude for image manipulation in post processing. This is a “Must Do” in my opinion. I shoot all my images in RAW.
16. Be original! Develop your own style and unique vision. Any competent photographer can duplicate someone else’s work. Truly great photographers produce unique images and avoid cliché photography. Go for non-standard viewpoints, say from ground-level rather than eye-level. Imagine the world as seen from an animal's viewpoint rather than a human's! Think what the scene would look like to a flying bird or a ground dwelling squirrel.
17. Tell a Story! People who look at pictures will enjoy looking at a story over a snapshot any day. Telling stories with your camera forces you to slow down and think about what you are doing. What is it about this scene that makes you want to make a photograph? What moves you or attracts your eye? Is there a theme, a phrase or a point of view that you want to capture and preserve? Where is the beginning, the middle and the end?
Happy Shooting!
I always say that nature is rarely perfect. Your images need a helping hand and with the right technique you give yourself the best chance of taking one of those shots you want to show off to the world.
The landscape photography tips below will help you make more of the photo opportunities that you'll come across when you are in search of that perfect landscape photograph.
1. If you have a DSLR camera that gives you control over settings such as shutter speed, aperture and exposure values “EV”, set your camera on “Aperture Priority” and use a small aperture of f/16 or f/20. This will let you keep everything in focus and the camera will set your shutter speed automatically. For the advanced photographer, use your manual settings and adjust your EV setting to achieve proper exposure after you set your aperture and desired shutter speed.
2. Early morning and late evening are the best times for shooting landscapes. Blue hour photography and golden hour photography are the only time I venture out to take my landscape images. The reasons; the sun is not as harsh as a stronger high sun and the low angle of the sun reveals shadows and textures.
3. The best landscapes are rarely found at the side of the road. So be prepared to go for a hike with a map or a GPS Unit in an effort to seek out the most interesting locations that not everyone takes a photo of. You can also download Photographers Ephemeris and do some pre-planning before you leave home.
4. Wide angle lenses are commonly used for landscapes because they will allow you to include more in the frame and open up the vertical perspective. But, the wide angle lens pushes the scene away… you can also consider using a longer focal length lens and compressing the depth of just a part of the entire scene.
5. If shooting the entire scene before you, whenever possible, place something of interest in the foreground of the shot to create a sense of depth. At the same time, ensure that you use that small aperture to keep everything in focus.
If you do not have something to ground the scene, focus one third up from the bottom of the image. This way you will maximize focus of the entire scene.
6. Another great but simple landscape photography tip is to anchor your camera to a tripod to slow down your pace of working when shooting landscapes. This means you'll take fewer but better pictures.
Also, if you are shooting in low light your exposure times will be elongated, forcing you to mount the camera to eliminate camera shake.
7. Carry a cable release. The timer function on the camera is no substitute for a cable release, BTW. The cable allows you the release the shutter when YOU want to release the shutter, not 2 sec or 10 sec or 15 sec from when you want to release. The release makes it so you don't have to touch the camera at all which will definitely minimize camera shake...especially important for those longer exposure shots. As an aside, if your camera allows it, use the mirror lock up function.
8. Keep on the lookout for scenes that will let you crop the top and bottom of the image to produce a more dramatic panoramic composition.
9. Use a circular polarizing filter to darken the sky and saturate the colors in the landscape (this is the one must-have filter for landscape photographers).
10. Meter your scene and use graduated grey or neutral density filters to darken the sky and reduce the contrast between the landscape and the sky. Polarizing filters aren't much use for bright cloudy skies but graduated filters are. Frequently, the sky looks burned out in photos because your digital sensors don't have the range to record the brightness differences between it and darker foreground scenery.
11. Use color correction filters to change the color of light on a landscape. These filters can either warm up the landscape or cool it down, depending on the filter color used. In this image, a sepia graduated filter was used upside-down to color the foreground rocks only.
You can either do this in the camera or you can do this in Photoshop later.
12. Try using a soft focus filter to add an ethereal quality to the scene. These filters blur the bright areas of a scene into the shadows to give the image a glow.
Again, you can do this in the camera or apply the soft focus after with gaussian blur in Photoshop
13. If you’re up for experimentation, try making your own filters. There's never a guarantee you'll get good results, but your photos will certainly look different. You can make a filter out of anything that's at least partially transparent - a bit of old stocking, Vaseline rubbed on an old filter (don't ever rub Vaseline directly onto a lens - you'll ruin it permanently!) Or you could try breathing gently on your lens (in cool conditions) to get a soft-focus effect.
14. Use the Hyperfocal distance to obtain the fastest shutter speed with greatest depth of field. Hyperfocal allows you to get everything sharp, from things close up to the camera to those far away. It's more reliable than just setting the focus at infinity. You will need a camera that allows manual focusing though. Click here to learn what Hyperfocal distance is.
15. Shoot RAW images rather than JPGs. The RAW image will take up more room on your memory card but the RAW image will give you greater latitude for image manipulation in post processing. This is a “Must Do” in my opinion. I shoot all my images in RAW.
16. Be original! Develop your own style and unique vision. Any competent photographer can duplicate someone else’s work. Truly great photographers produce unique images and avoid cliché photography. Go for non-standard viewpoints, say from ground-level rather than eye-level. Imagine the world as seen from an animal's viewpoint rather than a human's! Think what the scene would look like to a flying bird or a ground dwelling squirrel.
17. Tell a Story! People who look at pictures will enjoy looking at a story over a snapshot any day. Telling stories with your camera forces you to slow down and think about what you are doing. What is it about this scene that makes you want to make a photograph? What moves you or attracts your eye? Is there a theme, a phrase or a point of view that you want to capture and preserve? Where is the beginning, the middle and the end?
Happy Shooting!
Tuesday, 25 October 2011
There is an elephant in the room… Lets discuss it?
I am sure this post is going to upset a few people. There have been some HEATED comments flying around the internet as of late. I have been reading a lot of posts on Twitter and on blogs from photographers expressing their opinions on whether pro photographers should post their images on photo sharing sites so others could learn. There have also been some discussions on whether photographers should give their images away for free to not for profit companies. I even read a heated debate or two between pro photographers about using your images as a marketing tool to create awareness of the photographers business. In addition to giving photographs away for free, there is also a constant discussion about photographers sharing their techniques to amateur photographers via tutorials or seminars.
So many points of view out there… it’s a rather interesting topic
I do not know where your opinion lies; I don’t know where you are in your photographic evolution. Where you are in your personal evolution probably will determine your Point of View “POV”.
I am not professing my opinion is necessarily the right point of view; there are merits to both sides of the argument. But I definitely tilt towards helping others. I strongly believe that “The more you give, the more you get”!
Let’s dig into the three main debates a bit deeper and let me offer my POV…
1) Should photographers create tutorials online for other photographers to learn from?
In My Opinion – where else are photographers going to learn at their own speed? Sure, there are college courses and many photographers run workshops, but these options can run you into the thousands of dollars. Both are viable options to become a better photographer, but people want to learn at their own speed. I am sure you will agree that professional photographers can intimidate the amateur photographer… I get wanting to learn at your own speed until you are confident. A lot of people want to be able to sit at home in front of their computer and read tutorials, try them on their own and get themselves to another level of photography aptitude.
I sort of understand the position from photographers that are already PRO photogs. They went to school, they paid their dues, and so should everyone else… but really, why, as an experienced photographer would you not want to share your knowledge and become a perceived expert to the less experienced? If you are a perceived expert I would suggest that amateur photographers will turn to you for advice or take one of your workshops when they become more confident in their own abilities.
2) Should photographers post their images on photo sharing websites?
In My Opinion – For the same reason as I gave above… become the perceived expert. Allow people into your images and show them what you take. Maybe give them some guidelines like camera settings… for example, “photo was taken at sunrise, f/11, 30 second exposure, ISO 100”.
Share and it will pay off down the road. I have seen it work. Andrew Collett is the perfect example. A fantastic landscape photographer and artist in his own right, he makes the photo club circuit and teaches photographers how he takes his images. My club has had him back three years in a row. His payoff; many of our members have attended his workshops because they are comfortable with him… because they have a personal connection and they identify with him!
3) Should photographers give images to companies for free to profit from or hang in their buildings?
In My Opinion – Why Not! If not for the reason they are a charity and they need to generate an income somehow, do it to increase your own exposure in your local area and help create awareness of your photographic abilities.
The more people that see your work while you are refining your craft, the more feedback you will receive, the more chances you will have to make money, the better you will become in the long run.
I cringe when I hear pro photographers say that people should not give their images away for free… It is old school thinking by people that do not perceive they will ever need anything from the less experienced photographer. Some may even call it Elitist. Hmmmm, maybe there is some merit why pro photographers may be considered snobish.
Go back 10 years; there were half the photographers out there that are out there now. If we want to turn this hobby into a money making venture we have to compete against a lot of people. We have to work harder as pro-sumers or amateurs today than the PROS today had to work 10 to 15 years ago.
Not only the increased local competition, but the internet has made this world a very small place. It is reasonable to have a person in Europe find a photographer in a small town in Ontario, Canada and want to buy an image from them. There must have been thousands of photographers local to the buyer they could have contacted… We now have to think globally as well as locally.
The reality is that only a very small percentage of us are going to become a nationally known photographer… a larger percentage will be locally known, and the vast majority of us will probably never consider ourselves a professional. Regardless of what your aspirations are or where you will end up… market yourself, build a brand, and just get your name out there.
If want to be a professional, in my opinion, being perceived as an expert that shares information to help others presents you with a much better chance of getting you to where you want to be than simply being a closed off island…
So, that’s my opinion as an aspiring photographer trying to turn this expensive hobby into a money making venture.
I would like to hear your opinion. Sound off and tell us what you think, either here or reply to my tweet on this subject on Oct 25, 2011.
So many points of view out there… it’s a rather interesting topic
I do not know where your opinion lies; I don’t know where you are in your photographic evolution. Where you are in your personal evolution probably will determine your Point of View “POV”.
I am not professing my opinion is necessarily the right point of view; there are merits to both sides of the argument. But I definitely tilt towards helping others. I strongly believe that “The more you give, the more you get”!
Let’s dig into the three main debates a bit deeper and let me offer my POV…
1) Should photographers create tutorials online for other photographers to learn from?
In My Opinion – where else are photographers going to learn at their own speed? Sure, there are college courses and many photographers run workshops, but these options can run you into the thousands of dollars. Both are viable options to become a better photographer, but people want to learn at their own speed. I am sure you will agree that professional photographers can intimidate the amateur photographer… I get wanting to learn at your own speed until you are confident. A lot of people want to be able to sit at home in front of their computer and read tutorials, try them on their own and get themselves to another level of photography aptitude.
I sort of understand the position from photographers that are already PRO photogs. They went to school, they paid their dues, and so should everyone else… but really, why, as an experienced photographer would you not want to share your knowledge and become a perceived expert to the less experienced? If you are a perceived expert I would suggest that amateur photographers will turn to you for advice or take one of your workshops when they become more confident in their own abilities.
2) Should photographers post their images on photo sharing websites?
In My Opinion – For the same reason as I gave above… become the perceived expert. Allow people into your images and show them what you take. Maybe give them some guidelines like camera settings… for example, “photo was taken at sunrise, f/11, 30 second exposure, ISO 100”.
Share and it will pay off down the road. I have seen it work. Andrew Collett is the perfect example. A fantastic landscape photographer and artist in his own right, he makes the photo club circuit and teaches photographers how he takes his images. My club has had him back three years in a row. His payoff; many of our members have attended his workshops because they are comfortable with him… because they have a personal connection and they identify with him!
3) Should photographers give images to companies for free to profit from or hang in their buildings?
In My Opinion – Why Not! If not for the reason they are a charity and they need to generate an income somehow, do it to increase your own exposure in your local area and help create awareness of your photographic abilities.
The more people that see your work while you are refining your craft, the more feedback you will receive, the more chances you will have to make money, the better you will become in the long run.
I cringe when I hear pro photographers say that people should not give their images away for free… It is old school thinking by people that do not perceive they will ever need anything from the less experienced photographer. Some may even call it Elitist. Hmmmm, maybe there is some merit why pro photographers may be considered snobish.
Go back 10 years; there were half the photographers out there that are out there now. If we want to turn this hobby into a money making venture we have to compete against a lot of people. We have to work harder as pro-sumers or amateurs today than the PROS today had to work 10 to 15 years ago.
Not only the increased local competition, but the internet has made this world a very small place. It is reasonable to have a person in Europe find a photographer in a small town in Ontario, Canada and want to buy an image from them. There must have been thousands of photographers local to the buyer they could have contacted… We now have to think globally as well as locally.
The reality is that only a very small percentage of us are going to become a nationally known photographer… a larger percentage will be locally known, and the vast majority of us will probably never consider ourselves a professional. Regardless of what your aspirations are or where you will end up… market yourself, build a brand, and just get your name out there.
If want to be a professional, in my opinion, being perceived as an expert that shares information to help others presents you with a much better chance of getting you to where you want to be than simply being a closed off island…
So, that’s my opinion as an aspiring photographer trying to turn this expensive hobby into a money making venture.
I would like to hear your opinion. Sound off and tell us what you think, either here or reply to my tweet on this subject on Oct 25, 2011.
Tuesday, 18 October 2011
Looking for a Photography Workshop? Maybe this will help...
Sometimes the difference between a fantastic photograph and a good photograph comes down to a few small points. It could be as simple as placing the point of interest in another location, an adjustment to composition or some final editing techniques in post editing.
You can watch all the YouTube videos you can, or read all the books you can get your hands on in the effort to become a better photographer. But, you are still left to your own devices. A photography workshop taught by an experienced photographer with an engaging personality can give you the hands on mentoring that will take years off that learning curve.
Here are a few suggestions to help you pick a workshop and help ensure you have a great learning experience.
Go into it as a financial transaction
The first step to choosing a workshop should be to understand that attending a workshop is a financial investment. If you a full-time photographer… Remember that this will eat into your direct profit, so you want to make sure your money is spent wisely. If you are you a part-time photographer or hobbyist… your decision to attend a workshop is an investment in yourself, so invest wisely.
Determine what you’re willing to spend
This ties directly back to the last point, but before selecting a workshop, determine what you willing to spend. This will help to narrow your focus and reduce the urge to “impulse buy” just because the workshop sounds awesome. Again, it’s a financial investment. Workshop fees can range from $100 – $3000. Just make sure you have all the details, there could be workshop fees and travel fees that are not disclosed.
Start Searching
Chances are the internet is one of the first places you will start your search. Try using Google and use the search term, ‘Photography Workshop in “insert the name of your city here”. This will get you started for local options. But not all classes are well indexed by search engines. Don’t forget to check around for local photography clubs who may offer an abundance of learning opportunities. Community colleges and local trade schools will also have options which may not show in internet search results, so it may be necessary to check their individual websites.
Also don’t discount word of mouth; ask around to friends and family and let them know you are looking for a photography mentor. The more feelers out there, the better your chances are in finding the right workshop.
Pick an instructor who has a style that resonates with you.
When you are considering a workshop, look at the prospective instructor’s work. Are they images of subjects you would like to photograph, in locations you would enjoy taking pictures? Are the images well composed, sharp, and exposed properly? When you look at their images do you say "I would like to make images like those"?
Another good way to identify they are a good photographer. See if people are commenting on any of their images or look to see if companies have published their photography. A sure fire way to determine if a photographer is respected is if they have been published by the magazines or websites you visit to learn about photography.
Choose small workshop sizes.
All things being equal you will get better attention in smaller workshops. When you attend a workshop of anything more than 2 or 3 people your face time with the instructor is limited. In my opinion you do not get your money’s worth. Consider attending a smaller workshop or one on one mentoring. It may cost more, but your learning will be exponentially greater.
A teacher who knows more than just photography
Many workshop leaders are exceptional photographers and qualified teachers. And a few, in addition to having the above mention qualities may have special knowledge that you will find useful. Such as an instructor who is native to the area that you are shooting, and can share in the history of the area, or who just knows the best locations. Or perhaps naturalists, one who can help you understand your subject and how to use that knowledge to make better images.
If you want to be more than just a weekend warrior, you should also consider this. I am a firm believer that what separates a well known `pro’sumer photographer to a great photographer that just posts images on photo sharing sites is the ability of the `pro’sumer to market themselves as a brand.
Look for a photographer that also has business savvy. Someone that does not only help you with taking better images, but also can help you learn to network more effectively. We live in a digital age; the internet is the marketing tool of the future. Maybe you should consider looking someone that can help you showcase your work to more people.
Know your equipment before the workshop.
To get the most out of your experience, a workshop is no place to learn the functions of your camera, lenses or flash. You should know the basics of your camera. At the very least, know how the exposure modes, metering modes and exposure compensation functions work on your camera. You can learn camera function from a manual. Why pay someone to teach you something that is your responsibility to know.
Location, Location, Location.
This is a very important. Pick a workshop where it is possible to make the kind of images you want to make, a location where you can comfortably make those images. Some workshops are run in the photographer’s local area because they are too lazy to drive to a better location. Why waste your money if you are not going to come away with the shots you want to take.
Ask the workshop leader where you will go before you hand over any money. Ask for details and make sure you are satisfied before you pay them.
While at the workshop, ask the workshop leader questions.
Don’t be shy; you are paying for their knowledge. If you don’t understand, did not hear, or a subject you are interested in was not covered, ask! This is your time, and the workshop leader cannot read your mind. So do nto be afraid to ask.
Stay close to the instructor.
I have observed nature photography workshops when the students seem to scatter to be on their own. You can learn much just by watching and imitating your instructor. Besides that, if you need personal attention no time is wasted tracking down the instructor.
Bring Images.
Bring some of your images for critique. You can buy binders that can hold a variety of sized prints. Prints some off and do not be shy about asking the instructor for feedback. Many times a more seasoned photographer can find problems or areas that may need a little improvement just by looking at your images.
Have fun and take lots of pictures!
Bring plenty of film/digital media and batteries. Ask questions, stay close to your instructor and fire away! Take as many photos as possible. When you get home, review your images. Decide what you did well and what you need to continue to work on. Post your images for critique on web sites like flickr.com.
Most of all, don’t forget to show off your new found skills and beautiful pictures with your friends and family.
Write a review after the workshop!
Whether you loved it or hated it, please write a workshop review after it’s over. This is so critical. Future workshops attendees will have no idea what to expect without thorough workshop reviews, and qualified workshop instructors should appreciate both positive and negative feedback as a way to grow, get better, and offer the best product possible.
Detail how the workshop fit with the initial description, what you learned, what your expectations were and if they were met, and most of all, was this financial transaction worth the investment.
Good luck with your search!
Happy shooting,
Kev
P.S. If you know of, or do find any workshops, please comment below so that people reading this article can benefit from your experiences.
You can watch all the YouTube videos you can, or read all the books you can get your hands on in the effort to become a better photographer. But, you are still left to your own devices. A photography workshop taught by an experienced photographer with an engaging personality can give you the hands on mentoring that will take years off that learning curve.
Here are a few suggestions to help you pick a workshop and help ensure you have a great learning experience.
Go into it as a financial transaction
The first step to choosing a workshop should be to understand that attending a workshop is a financial investment. If you a full-time photographer… Remember that this will eat into your direct profit, so you want to make sure your money is spent wisely. If you are you a part-time photographer or hobbyist… your decision to attend a workshop is an investment in yourself, so invest wisely.
Determine what you’re willing to spend
This ties directly back to the last point, but before selecting a workshop, determine what you willing to spend. This will help to narrow your focus and reduce the urge to “impulse buy” just because the workshop sounds awesome. Again, it’s a financial investment. Workshop fees can range from $100 – $3000. Just make sure you have all the details, there could be workshop fees and travel fees that are not disclosed.
Start Searching
Chances are the internet is one of the first places you will start your search. Try using Google and use the search term, ‘Photography Workshop in “insert the name of your city here”. This will get you started for local options. But not all classes are well indexed by search engines. Don’t forget to check around for local photography clubs who may offer an abundance of learning opportunities. Community colleges and local trade schools will also have options which may not show in internet search results, so it may be necessary to check their individual websites.
Also don’t discount word of mouth; ask around to friends and family and let them know you are looking for a photography mentor. The more feelers out there, the better your chances are in finding the right workshop.
Pick an instructor who has a style that resonates with you.
When you are considering a workshop, look at the prospective instructor’s work. Are they images of subjects you would like to photograph, in locations you would enjoy taking pictures? Are the images well composed, sharp, and exposed properly? When you look at their images do you say "I would like to make images like those"?
Another good way to identify they are a good photographer. See if people are commenting on any of their images or look to see if companies have published their photography. A sure fire way to determine if a photographer is respected is if they have been published by the magazines or websites you visit to learn about photography.
Choose small workshop sizes.
All things being equal you will get better attention in smaller workshops. When you attend a workshop of anything more than 2 or 3 people your face time with the instructor is limited. In my opinion you do not get your money’s worth. Consider attending a smaller workshop or one on one mentoring. It may cost more, but your learning will be exponentially greater.
A teacher who knows more than just photography
Many workshop leaders are exceptional photographers and qualified teachers. And a few, in addition to having the above mention qualities may have special knowledge that you will find useful. Such as an instructor who is native to the area that you are shooting, and can share in the history of the area, or who just knows the best locations. Or perhaps naturalists, one who can help you understand your subject and how to use that knowledge to make better images.
If you want to be more than just a weekend warrior, you should also consider this. I am a firm believer that what separates a well known `pro’sumer photographer to a great photographer that just posts images on photo sharing sites is the ability of the `pro’sumer to market themselves as a brand.
Look for a photographer that also has business savvy. Someone that does not only help you with taking better images, but also can help you learn to network more effectively. We live in a digital age; the internet is the marketing tool of the future. Maybe you should consider looking someone that can help you showcase your work to more people.
Know your equipment before the workshop.
To get the most out of your experience, a workshop is no place to learn the functions of your camera, lenses or flash. You should know the basics of your camera. At the very least, know how the exposure modes, metering modes and exposure compensation functions work on your camera. You can learn camera function from a manual. Why pay someone to teach you something that is your responsibility to know.
Location, Location, Location.
This is a very important. Pick a workshop where it is possible to make the kind of images you want to make, a location where you can comfortably make those images. Some workshops are run in the photographer’s local area because they are too lazy to drive to a better location. Why waste your money if you are not going to come away with the shots you want to take.
Ask the workshop leader where you will go before you hand over any money. Ask for details and make sure you are satisfied before you pay them.
While at the workshop, ask the workshop leader questions.
Don’t be shy; you are paying for their knowledge. If you don’t understand, did not hear, or a subject you are interested in was not covered, ask! This is your time, and the workshop leader cannot read your mind. So do nto be afraid to ask.
Stay close to the instructor.
I have observed nature photography workshops when the students seem to scatter to be on their own. You can learn much just by watching and imitating your instructor. Besides that, if you need personal attention no time is wasted tracking down the instructor.
Bring Images.
Bring some of your images for critique. You can buy binders that can hold a variety of sized prints. Prints some off and do not be shy about asking the instructor for feedback. Many times a more seasoned photographer can find problems or areas that may need a little improvement just by looking at your images.
Have fun and take lots of pictures!
Bring plenty of film/digital media and batteries. Ask questions, stay close to your instructor and fire away! Take as many photos as possible. When you get home, review your images. Decide what you did well and what you need to continue to work on. Post your images for critique on web sites like flickr.com.
Most of all, don’t forget to show off your new found skills and beautiful pictures with your friends and family.
Write a review after the workshop!
Whether you loved it or hated it, please write a workshop review after it’s over. This is so critical. Future workshops attendees will have no idea what to expect without thorough workshop reviews, and qualified workshop instructors should appreciate both positive and negative feedback as a way to grow, get better, and offer the best product possible.
Detail how the workshop fit with the initial description, what you learned, what your expectations were and if they were met, and most of all, was this financial transaction worth the investment.
Good luck with your search!
Happy shooting,
Kev
P.S. If you know of, or do find any workshops, please comment below so that people reading this article can benefit from your experiences.
Monday, 17 October 2011
Photographing Water
Whether you’re a seasoned photographer or a novice venturing into the world of photography, taking your time to research the best viewpoint to photograph something is one of the first and most important steps.
If it’s a body of water you want to capture, Ontario has the benefit of being close to the largest body of fresh water in the world, one-fifth of the world's fresh surface water and has close to 10,000 miles of shoreline and rivers. Needless to say, there are lots of locations to choose from.
My personal preference is to take my waterscape images during early morning or later evening. This will reduce the amount of glare and reflections on the waters surface and allow you to play with shutter speeds and create emotion… something that I promise will separates your image from the novice photographer.
My method is to scope out a location ahead of time, identify sun and moon locations using “photographers ephemeris” and then show up two hours before a sun rise or sunset. My personal preference is to show up in the morning, shoot the blue hour before the sun comes up. You will bear the solar winds and boat traffic before they kick up the waves.
When I am choosing a viewpoint for photographing water, I first look for a focal point of interest. This can be a lighthouse, rock formation, an interesting structure or high tide. Any interesting landmark or formations of nature are great to use as focal points. I sometimes follow the rule of thirds and place the focal point to either the left or right side of the image. But then again, sometimes the balance of the image demands that a focal point is in the foreground, smack center in the lower half of the image.
Simple adjustments to your position can also change the viewpoint and increase the beauty of the image. Experiment with moving the camera a few inches up by standing on a rock or chair. Try kneeling down for another viewpoint. You can also alter your position by taking steps to the side of steps forward or backwards.
Don’t accept that the image that you see before you is the image you should be taking. Most of us are shooting digital, take numerous shots from different angles and watch how the subtle change can have a huge impact of the composition.
Tips for photographing water
Water seems like such a simple thing to photograph. We see images everywhere that depict incredible photographic scenes. It has many faces; it can be as large as an ocean, a river or a waterfall to as small as a droplet on a flower petal. Frozen or free flowing, it can be both dramatic and interesting.
The following are some tips and thoughts to get you thinking of capturing water. Not only out in nature, but in your kitchen or bathroom too.
Long Exposure waterscapes
This generally is taken early in the morning or later in the day. The time of day therefore demands a long shutter speed. The result will be flattened water of glass that will give off some reflections.
I suggest that you use a tripod, shutter release cable and set your camera on aperture priority and let the shutter speed be determined by the camera. The smaller the iris opening (larger the f-stop number) the longer the shutter speed will be.
Stopping the motion of water
Some examples are when your kids are splashing in the water or a wave is hitting the rocks. My suggestion here is to use fairly fast shutter speed and/or flash in order to freeze the action. Use a tripod and a multi/continuous shot mode is advised as you will want to capture a series of shots of the water moving before selecting your favorite one when you see them on a larger screen at home.
Water drops
Water drops can be extremely hard to photograph. The best way to capture droplets is to put your camera on a tripod and attach a shutter release cable or use a remote control to eliminate camera shake. I would set my camera to burst mode so you can take a series of images at once. Use a macro lens, a cable release and have a light source handy to light the drop as it rests or rolls.
Another way to photograph a droplet of water is to do it indoors. You capture the water dropping in a pool of water. What you do is fill a bowl with water then let a droplet fall into the water. At the same time, let the shutter start so it takes a series of images and one should capture the moment the droplet hits the surface. With this technique, practice makes perfect! I make it sound simple here, but its rather difficult. Some people go as far as using a set up with multiple lights, colored dye and a contraption to fix the water collision point. Google the process and get some ideas.
Reflections
Look out for interesting details when you are shooting reflections. There’s no point shooting something dull and uninteresting. I like to capture people or animals in reflections on the other side of the body of water.
I would not use a flash as this will leave a ‘hot spot’ in the water, I would rater see you use a polarizer filter as this reduces glare from the sun that may be present in the water. Choose a reasonable shutter speed so there is no blurring, especially if the water is moving a little.
You will want to wait for fairly calm conditions when shooting reflections in the water.
Waterfalls
In order to capture silky smooth water flows use a long shutter speed. You will need to experiment to find the perfect timing but starting from two seconds is a good point. You must place your camera on a tripod and never use flash. You can also choose a small depth of field of f/16 to f/22 so that the image looks sharp.
Moving water on bright days?
On a bright day, you may find choosing a long shutter speed problematic. So what you need to do is to use a neutral density filter. This is attached on the end of your lens and blocks out the amount of light entering it, meaning you can choose a longer shutter speed. You can also use a polarizer at the same time. Another option is to choose a low ISO of 100 or even 50 if your camera allows it. The lower the ISO the more light the camera needs to capture an image so this may force the camera to give you a slower shutter speed and as a bonus, you will have a very fine grained image.
Pull up Google, look at some images, and get inspired. Then, get out and enjoy what water can offer… and keep the camera dry. :-)
Kev
If it’s a body of water you want to capture, Ontario has the benefit of being close to the largest body of fresh water in the world, one-fifth of the world's fresh surface water and has close to 10,000 miles of shoreline and rivers. Needless to say, there are lots of locations to choose from.
My personal preference is to take my waterscape images during early morning or later evening. This will reduce the amount of glare and reflections on the waters surface and allow you to play with shutter speeds and create emotion… something that I promise will separates your image from the novice photographer.
My method is to scope out a location ahead of time, identify sun and moon locations using “photographers ephemeris” and then show up two hours before a sun rise or sunset. My personal preference is to show up in the morning, shoot the blue hour before the sun comes up. You will bear the solar winds and boat traffic before they kick up the waves.
When I am choosing a viewpoint for photographing water, I first look for a focal point of interest. This can be a lighthouse, rock formation, an interesting structure or high tide. Any interesting landmark or formations of nature are great to use as focal points. I sometimes follow the rule of thirds and place the focal point to either the left or right side of the image. But then again, sometimes the balance of the image demands that a focal point is in the foreground, smack center in the lower half of the image.
Simple adjustments to your position can also change the viewpoint and increase the beauty of the image. Experiment with moving the camera a few inches up by standing on a rock or chair. Try kneeling down for another viewpoint. You can also alter your position by taking steps to the side of steps forward or backwards.
Don’t accept that the image that you see before you is the image you should be taking. Most of us are shooting digital, take numerous shots from different angles and watch how the subtle change can have a huge impact of the composition.
Tips for photographing water
Water seems like such a simple thing to photograph. We see images everywhere that depict incredible photographic scenes. It has many faces; it can be as large as an ocean, a river or a waterfall to as small as a droplet on a flower petal. Frozen or free flowing, it can be both dramatic and interesting.
The following are some tips and thoughts to get you thinking of capturing water. Not only out in nature, but in your kitchen or bathroom too.
Long Exposure waterscapes
This generally is taken early in the morning or later in the day. The time of day therefore demands a long shutter speed. The result will be flattened water of glass that will give off some reflections.
I suggest that you use a tripod, shutter release cable and set your camera on aperture priority and let the shutter speed be determined by the camera. The smaller the iris opening (larger the f-stop number) the longer the shutter speed will be.
Stopping the motion of water
Some examples are when your kids are splashing in the water or a wave is hitting the rocks. My suggestion here is to use fairly fast shutter speed and/or flash in order to freeze the action. Use a tripod and a multi/continuous shot mode is advised as you will want to capture a series of shots of the water moving before selecting your favorite one when you see them on a larger screen at home.
Water drops
Water drops can be extremely hard to photograph. The best way to capture droplets is to put your camera on a tripod and attach a shutter release cable or use a remote control to eliminate camera shake. I would set my camera to burst mode so you can take a series of images at once. Use a macro lens, a cable release and have a light source handy to light the drop as it rests or rolls.
Another way to photograph a droplet of water is to do it indoors. You capture the water dropping in a pool of water. What you do is fill a bowl with water then let a droplet fall into the water. At the same time, let the shutter start so it takes a series of images and one should capture the moment the droplet hits the surface. With this technique, practice makes perfect! I make it sound simple here, but its rather difficult. Some people go as far as using a set up with multiple lights, colored dye and a contraption to fix the water collision point. Google the process and get some ideas.
Reflections
Look out for interesting details when you are shooting reflections. There’s no point shooting something dull and uninteresting. I like to capture people or animals in reflections on the other side of the body of water.
I would not use a flash as this will leave a ‘hot spot’ in the water, I would rater see you use a polarizer filter as this reduces glare from the sun that may be present in the water. Choose a reasonable shutter speed so there is no blurring, especially if the water is moving a little.
You will want to wait for fairly calm conditions when shooting reflections in the water.
Waterfalls
In order to capture silky smooth water flows use a long shutter speed. You will need to experiment to find the perfect timing but starting from two seconds is a good point. You must place your camera on a tripod and never use flash. You can also choose a small depth of field of f/16 to f/22 so that the image looks sharp.
Moving water on bright days?
On a bright day, you may find choosing a long shutter speed problematic. So what you need to do is to use a neutral density filter. This is attached on the end of your lens and blocks out the amount of light entering it, meaning you can choose a longer shutter speed. You can also use a polarizer at the same time. Another option is to choose a low ISO of 100 or even 50 if your camera allows it. The lower the ISO the more light the camera needs to capture an image so this may force the camera to give you a slower shutter speed and as a bonus, you will have a very fine grained image.
Pull up Google, look at some images, and get inspired. Then, get out and enjoy what water can offer… and keep the camera dry. :-)
Kev
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