Shoot slowly, zoom quickly

If you're shooting a static display, add some interest by turning the zoom control while shooting with a fairly slow shutter speed (you can only do this with a manual zoom, as a powered lens will be locked off when shooting). This works particularly well when shooting cars and other forms of transport as it gives them a sense of motion.

This photo was taken standing in the middle of the road. I had the camera on a tripod and it was just after sunrise... the shutter speed was a few seconds and i rolled the zoom on the lens during the length of time the shutter was open... the end result... manufactured motion.

Exposure Compensation Tip for Landscape Photographers

When I want to be inspired my default is to head out and take landscape photos. There is something about being out in nature with only peaceful thoughts in my head to keep me company. Mind you, it took a few years to get there. As I learned more about photography I realized that there is so much more than raising a camera to your eye and clicking a shutter.

I can remember this one scene with a dark blue sky and bright sun kissed mountains in the background and a shadow filled grassy foreground split by a meandering river with bright reflections of the mountains behind. If I metered the camera on the shadows, the brighter parts of the photo were blown out, if I metered on the brighter mountains the shadows were too dark. Using an f/22 made everything appear in focus if it was a bright scene, but the exposure time for my early morning landscape photo was so long I could not hand hold the camera. (Insert visual of me sitting in front of my computer pulling my hair while I see my improperly exposed images) That was an outing I wanted to forget. But back I went armed with the proper exposure info. This time I got the photo I was after.

To learn proper exposure you first must understand that there are basically three universal metering choices. They are matrix or evaluative, spot metering and center-weighted. Your camera manual will tell you what modes you have and how to change between them. I won’t go into those details; instead, I’ll explain what each of these modes do and what photos to use them for.

Matrix or Evaluative Metering
This is probably the most complex metering mode, offering the best exposure in most circumstances a landscape photographer will encounter. Essentially, the scene is split up into a matrix of metering zones which are then automatically evaluated individually. The overall exposure is based on a closely guarded algorithm specific to that camera manufacturer. Often they are based on comparing the measurements to the exposure of typical scenes.

This setting is generally what I use for landscape photography, with modifications using exposure compensation. (We will get to that in a minute)

Center-weighted Average Metering
Probably the most common metering method implemented in nearly every digital camera and the default for those digital cameras which don't offer metering mode selection. This method averages the exposure of the entire frame but gives extra weight to the center and is ideal for portraits. Think of this as a balance between spot metering and evaluative, where the “spot” is much wider and has a softer transition.

Spot (Partial) Metering
Spot metering allows you to meter the subject in the center of the frame (or on some cameras at the selected AF point). Only a small area of the whole frame is metered and the exposure of the rest of the frame is ignored. This type of metering is useful for brightly backlit, macro, and moon shots. Take a landscape photo and meter on a bright sky and the rest of the photo will be dark. Meter on the shadows and the rest of the photo will be blown out.

For the nature photographer, it’s ideal for situations where you have a lit subject (such as a leaf in the sun above) and a darkened background where you want the subject to stand out. If you were to take this photo in evaluative mode, your light meter would average the exposure needed for your lit subject (the leaf) against the exposure for your darkened environment (with more weight given for the background since it covers more area than the leaf). In short, your end result would be an image with a blown out subject and a not-so-dark environment

Another great tool for photographers is the exposure compensation feature. This allows you to instantly adjust the exposure in either direction without having to input the changes manually. You can select to adjust your metered exposure by 1/3 of a stop increment (whether you’re in a priority mode or in full-auto).

I use this often because it’s so much easier than adjusting your settings manually. I mostly shoot in aperture priority mode and there are times when my light meter will over or underexpose my photo a bit. Instead of making note of my settings, going into full manual mode and inputting a different exposure, I can simply adjust my exposure compensation dial and get a different exposure.

So basically, this is a way to instantly override your light meter. Your camera will meter your image and give you an exposure based on its own calculations, and exposure compensation allows you to trump this function without having to go into full manual. It’s very handy, especially since my camera will often underexpose an image by 1/3 to a 1/2 of a stop.

People often ask me what my camera settings are when I am taking landscape photos. So here it is…
• I typically shoot in aperture priority around an f/20.
• I set the camera to evaluative mode.
• I meter the focal point that is as close to a mid-tone colour as I can find and lock the exposure
• I then set the camera on manual focus and focus 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the frame.
• I watch my histogram and make any EV adjustments needed.
• I take three photos, one at the original camera default, one slightly over exposed, one slightly under exposed.
• My camera sits atop a tripod, generally lower to the ground for a more interesting POV and I use a shutter release cable to eliminate any camera shake. (if your camera does it, lock the mirror up as well)

My suggestion is to establish your own workflow that you can follow before every photograph. Yours may differ from mine, and you may have some suggestions for us on your workflow. So please comment below and let us know your workflow when taking landscape photos.

Happy Shooting

Kev

Landscape Photography

Are you a fan of landscape photos? Personally, I am someone that likes to photograph landscapes more than any other subject... probably because they don't talk back like people, or flutter around like a bird. :-)

I always try to look for creative ways to shoot the landscape. It does not always work out, but sometimes  I catch a view point not many people get a photograph of... and those photos my friends are what separates a good photographer from a  great photographer.

So let’s take a look at some tips that have been handed down to me for shooting landscape photos from fellow photographers and some professionals.

Tip 1: Bring a Tripod

Always bring a tripod if you plan on shooting landscapes. Even if the day is sunny, you may need to use a small aperture to achieve a much larger depth of field. In these instances, you may be using a low shutter speed – which leads to camera shake if you can’t hold the camera stable in your hands.

Hence the need for a tripod. I would suggest a ball head on the tripod as it allows for more versatility in moving the camera around and helping you capture a more unique looking composition.

Tip 2: Cable Release

One good tip is to carry a cable release. Instead of using the timer function on the camera, use the cable release. This ensures that you can trigger the shutter at precisely the right timing. In turn, this leads to reduced camera shake and a more beautiful "tack sharp" photo. If you do not have a cable release or a remote shutter activator, the timer on your camera does work as well.

For those of you that are more advanced, locking up the mirror increases your chances of getting a sharper image as well.

Tip 3: Use the Right Filters

Filters are important when taking landscape photos. There are different types of filters that I use – polarizers, neutral density filters and graduated neutral density filters. There are screw on filters and handheld ones as well. I prefer to use the hand held filters to give myself more control of gettign the properly exposed photo right in the camera.

Polarizers are useful for reducing glare from water and other reflective surfaces. These create a more well-balanced and beautiful picture.

Neutral density filters will stop a specified amount of light entering the camera. I tend to use these for shooting waterfalls on a sunny day, high noon sun and occasionally in the winter months when the snow glare is blinding.

Graduated neutral density filters are a slight variation of this – they are dark on top and clear on the bottom, creating a ‘gradual transition’ from the dark to clear area. These filters are good for blocking out bright parts of a scene (say the sky) to create a more evenly exposed picture.

Tip 4: Research the Landscape

One thing to do before taking landscape photos is to do some background research on the landscape. If you’re taking pictures of the Niagara Falls, or the Grand Canyon, try to do some background study on what the most scenic spots are, where does the sun rise and sun set around the subject, etc... There are many sites where you can investigate vantage points. Sites like flickr or google images will allow you to see photos and give yousomething to emulate.

It’s also good to check out the weather conditions of the place you want to photograph. Check the weather network and look at the hour by hour schedule to see what you can expect when you want to visit your location – if the weather doesn’t look good, you may want to try shooting another day.

But, for the diehards like me that like to shoot landscapes, if I know its going to rain, or is going to be foggy... i put on the rain gear, grab the umbrella and get out in the rain. Atmospheric conditions offer fantastic settings that create great depth of field, offer a view not many people photograph... and more importantly greatly reduces the chances of photographing the local family out for a hike with their two dogs and 4 kids.

Tip 5: Lenses

For shooting landscape photos, it’s usually best to bring wide-angle lenses. I also bring along a telephoto lens in case I want to shoot some creative, "zoomed-in" shots.

Tip 6: Composition

I think the most important thing to remember is that composition rules are still important in landscape photos. Make sure you have something in the foreground, mid-ground and background.

Also, when taking photos of landscapes or a photo of a natural setting... have these three things in the back of your mind as you are composing your photo. (1) where is the bright spot... does it draw the eye into the image. FYI, the eye is naturally drawn to light and using light to draw someone's eye into your photograph is a good way to increase the quality of your work, (2) Is the image that sits in front of you giving you a 3 dimensional feeling. Creating a 3d (ish) effect creates more visual appeal, and (3) try and take a photo of your subject from a unique perspective. I mean, if you want the standard cookie cutter photo, set up and snap the photo... but if you want a different look of a subject that has been photographed to death... take some time and study the subject and see if you can find an angle that you may not have thought of at first glance.

Tip 7: Shoot at the Right Time

For landscape photography, an important thing to remember is that you should avoid shooting during mid-day. There is a lot of harsh lighting and bad shadow effects during that period. Early morning or late afternoon tends to be best. So be prepared to miss a few dinners or breakfasts.

I personally shoot all my landscape, OK, well almost all my landscape photos in and around the golden hour... that hour that happens 30 minutes before sunrise to 30 minutes after sunrise  or 30 minutes before sunset to 30 minutes after sunset.

Conclusion

As you can see, landscape photography poses its own challenges. However, bear the above tips in mind the next time you’re taking these photos, and I’m sure you’ll be much happier with your photos when you get home and look at them on the computer!