Sunday, 19 May 2013

Paris - The City of Love and Lights

The city of Paris has more familiar landmarks than any other city in the world. On your first visit you will arrive in the French capital with all sorts of expectations: cobblestone streets lined with sidewalk cafes, of intellectuals discussing weighty matters in these cafes, of romance along the Seine, naughty nightclub revues in a district called Montmarte and yes, if we are being honest with ourselves, we just might expect rude people who won’t speak English.

The truth is, if you look hard enough, you will find all of those. With an open mind you will actually discover is that Paris is enchanting, at any time of the year. It welcomes guests with open arms. I have been there six times, seen every season, met a lot of people, some which have become friends… and I came home thoroughly satisfied from each visit to the city of love and lights.


Getting to Paris: By air: Paris is served by three airports—Charles de Gaulle International Airport, Orly International Airport, and a regional airport, Beauvais. Chances are that you will be landing at Charles de Gaulle and you will need to take a €40 to €60 Euro taxi ride to your Parisian hotel.
By train: Paris is well connected to the rest of Europe by train offering high speed and normal trains such as the TER Regional trains, TGV (high-speed trains), Thalys, Intercity trains, and the Eurostar service. Getting off the train at Gade du Nord is the only experience I have taking trains. But a quick subway ride will take you right into the heart of the city.
By bus: The Eurolines company offers routes to other European cities.

Getting around Paris:Bus: The city has several hop-on hop-off bus tours specially run for tourists
By car: with dense traffic conditions, it is not a great idea to rent a car but driving may be an option if you are planning trips outside the city. Imaging this… you are driving up Av. Des Champs Elysees because you want to go to the Hugo Boss store, you miss your turn and immediately find yourself on an 8 lane roundabout that is circling the Arc de Triomphe and people are flying on and off at break neck speeds… and you get paralyzed with fear.
On foot: Walking in Paris is the best way to get around and explore the city. It is possible to cross the entire city in a span of just a few hours. For photographers it really is the only way to see the sites. Walk, admire, drink some wine, walk, admire, drink some wine, repeat…
Metro: Paris has an excellent subway train system with detailed maps of the surrounding area at each station. This would be my suggestion for travel around Paris. Look into a pass and use the Metro to get you around the city.
By boat: you can cruise along the Seine taking a circular route from the Eiffel Tower, down past the Louvre, Notre Dame, botanical gardens then back up the other bank past Musee D’Orsay.
Bicycle: You can rent a bike to explore the city. It can be much safer to cycle here than anywhere else. The government is actually planning to encourage the practice.



Where to stay in ParisThere are a few things you should consider before deciding where to stay in Paris. First, find out what area is right for you according to your visiting goals and personal tastes. Then choose accommodation based on your budget. I have stayed in hotels that are as much as €400 a night and I have stayed in flats for €100 a night. Honestly, I had a great time no matter where I stayed. Whether it was in bohemian district of Montmarte or right down on the Siene River near the La Louvre I enjoyed each visit.

The historical center of Paris is divided into 20 districts. I have put a map below for you to see what I am talking about. As you notice the city is split in the middle by the Seine River. Each of these districts is like a little village within the city with its own history, culture and way of life.



No matter where you stay in Paris, be prepared, you will walk a lot. You won’t realize it at first, but just the sheer amount of walking when inside the venues you will want to visit will be a lot. La Louvre alone can be quite a physical experience if you want to see it all (plan that over two days if you have time). Le Sacre Coeur is a 300+ stair climb to get to the top and the Notre Dame Cathedral is also a vertical hike to get up and swing from the bell like Quasi Motto did. So before you pack, think comfort or you will pay for it later.



There is accommodation for everyone in Paris, it goes from the bed & breakfast room if you want to get in touch with the locals, the cheap 2 star hotel that will be kind on your wallet, the holiday apartment for a feel at home experience or the glamorous luxury hotel if you want to treat yourself.

The Weather in ParisThe best weather in Paris is in spring (April-June) or fall (September-November), when things are easier to come by. The weather is temperate year-round. July and August are the worst for crowds. Parisians desert their city, leaving it to the tourists. Here are some quick facts:
The months June, July, August and September have a nice average temperature.
On average, the warmest month is July.
On average, the coolest month is December.
May is the wettest month.
February is the driest month.

I have been there in every season and found, as a photographer, there is no bad time to go. However, my favorite visits have been in September and March. You will get pleasing fall and spring weather and miss the majority of tourists. Regardless of what the weather is, if you are prepared, you will not have a bad day when you are in Paris.



OK, now that we have looked at the necessary details about the city, let’s get to the good stuff! Capturing a few of my favorite parts of the city in photos!

I have to say this, “Be prepared to wait your turn if you are doing the day time stroll with the camera around your neck.”

There are more photographers per square mile in this city during peak tourist times than I have seen anywhere else in the world. I have seen this happen all the time… a bus of tourists pulling up to the glass pyramid at Le Louvre, 100 people fall out of the bus and descend on the landmark like bees to a honey pot. It’s rather humorous.

My advice for the more seasoned photographer… go off hours. Apply the same photography principles here as you would at home. Shoot landmarks from 30 minutes before sunrise to ninety minutes after sunrise. Or, go at night and shoot ninety minutes before sunset to 30 minutes after sunset. Night photography is also amazing in this city. Some of my favorite photos have been taken at night when I have been to Paris.


The Eiffel Tower If you are taking photos to sell you should investigate the legalities of selling images or any French landmark, especially of the Eiffel tower at night. There has been much discussion surrounding this topic I would look into this before you attempt to sell anything. If it’s just for personal enjoyment and posting it on your website or sharing with your friends, you are fine.

You couldn't possibly visit Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower. Even if you do not want to visit this world famous structure, you will see it from all over Paris. The tower rises 300 meters tall (984 ft); when it was completed at the end of the 19th century it was twice as high as the Washington Monument.

The cost to go to the top is approx €15, but its well worth the price to get some fantastic views of the city. Take up your wide angle lens for some breathtaking images and take a telephoto lens to get some different viewpoints of some of the local churches and structures.


The Catacombs The Paris Catacombs are a maze of tunnels and crypts underneath the city streets where Parisians placed the bones of their dead for almost 30 years. Prior to the creation of the Catacombs in the mid-1700s, residents buried their dead in cemeteries near churches as is still customary in most places.

But as the city grew, the cemeteries quickly ran out of space. Additionally, improper burial techniques often led to ground water and land near cemeteries becoming contaminated and spreading disease to those living nearby, so city officials moved to condemn all the cemeteries within city limits and move the bodies in those cemeteries elsewhere.



The decision was made to use an underground section of quarries in Paris, and the bones from Paris’ city cemeteries were moved underground between 1786 and 1788. The process was conducted with reverence and discretion – the quarry space was blessed before any bones were moved there, bones were always moved in a quiet parade of carts accompanied by priests, and these movements always took place at night. The quarries continued to be used as the collection point for the bones from Paris’ cemeteries through 1814 and now contain the bodies of roughly 6-7 million Parisians.

To get there by METRO the nearest stop which is Denfert Rochereau (either on line 4 or 6) in zone 1. Be aware before you enter that there is no flash photography allowed in the site, so to get any decent photos you either need to be able to hold a camera in dim light and shoot in a high ISO setting, or use a tripod and long exposure times, which is exactly what I did.



The staff is really helpful in shining torches at the skulls for you so that you could see in better detail but really, as much as they are just trying to help, this is more a hindrance and annoyance when you’re taking photos. I’d recommend a tripod and your own flashlight as that seemed acceptable to the staff, it also seems acceptable to be able to touch the remains as some people even pick up the bones and photograph themselves holding the remains (not my cup of tea personally).

The cost to get in is approximately €8, but well worth the price.

Le Louvre and Musee d’Orsay Le Louvre is housed in the Louvre Palace (Palais du Louvre) which began as a fortress built in the late 12th century under Philip II. The building was extended many times to form the present Louvre Palace. In 1682, Louis XIV chose the Palace of Versailles for his household, leaving the Louvre primarily as a place to display the royal collection, including, from 1692, a collection of antique sculpture.



In 1692, the building was occupied by the Académie des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres and the Académie Royale de Peinture et de Sculpture, which in 1699 held the first of a series of salons. The Académie remained at the Louvre for 100 years. During the French Revolution, the National Assembly decreed that the Louvre should be used as a museum, to display the nation's masterpieces.

Imagine… almost 35,000 pieces of art in one location; historically significant paintings, sculptures that stood proud thousands of years ago, and priceless artifacts you have only read about in a book. Many are right there for you to see, and photograph! YES, you too can walk home with a photo of “Whistler’s Mother” or “Mona Lisa” for €10 to €15.

 
A word of caution, keep the flash in the bag and do not bring out the tripod… They have signs that tell you that your flash will degrade the art… so not wanting to be the person that ruins a $1Million artifact, I always choose to handhold with high ISO.

I suggest you walk the museum with the camera set on 400 ISO or higher, f/2.8 and brace my camera on a folded coat to help eliminate handshake. Regardless how you do it, you will walk away with a lot of fantastic images for your own personal enjoyment.

Click here to see an interactive floor plan of Le Louvre. This will walk you through where art is located and give you a better idea of the sheer size of the building.

Musee d’Orsay The history of the museum is quite unusual. In the centre of Paris on the banks of the Seine, opposite the Tuileries Gardens, the museum was installed in the former Orsay railway station, built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. So the building itself could be seen as the first "work of art" in the Musee d'Orsay, which displays collections of art from the period 1848 to 1914. For €8 you can spend as much time as you want admiring timeless pieces of art.



For those of you that appreciate the history of photography. There is a photography exhibit that shows photos as far back as the early 1800’s

The museum is not as large as Le Louvre but I found it just as inspiring as Le Louvre. The same rules apply for photographers, keep the flash in the bag and do not bring out the tripod… you are forced to handhold with high ISO. I have however seen a few people with monopods sneaking in a few photos here and there.

The rest of ParisThere is so much more to see and photograph. I could write and show photos for hours. These are just a few of my favorite locations. What I suggest, look at photos on flickr and go to the Parisian city website. There is an abundance of available information for anyone wishing to visit the city.

From fantastic graveyards, one in particular with the grave of Jim Morrison, the Sacre Ceour, Arc de Triomphe, the Oblisque, Notre Dame, and many, many more places. Your photographic opportunities are endless. Do some research, talk to people that have been there, and just go and enjoy yourself.

If you have any questions about Paris, please feel free to contact me through www.photographerslounge.ca I have visited the city 6 times in the last ten years… and someday soon, will be back again walking the streets of Paris with my camera draped over my shoulder.

Join me on my next Parisian Workshops

Week One with Deborah Sandidge


Happy Shooting,

Kev

Saturday, 18 May 2013

Photography Gear to take for an African Safari


 
My first workshop in eastern Africa with Journey to Africa is in the books and I wanted to write a follow up article about what gear to bring having spent almost two weeks in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area.

For my last workshop I packed up everything but the kitchen sink and brought almost the entire camera gear cabinet just to see what I would use, and not use. Surprisingly, I didn’t get a chance to use most of the gear that I brought with me.

So…. Here are my suggestions for gear to bring with you on a safari…

Two camera bodies… I brought a Nikon D7000 crop sensor camera and Nikon D600 full frame camera bodies. The D7000 crop sensor had the 150-500mm lens on the body the whole time and the full frame camera had both the wide angle and the 70-200mm lens on it depending on what I was photographing.

I attached a battery grip for D7000 for extended battery life and to give me an extra frame per second. It also eliminates the need to open your camera up when you are out in the field. Even close to the rainy season it can get dusty when out on safari.

I brought 6 Nikon EN EL15 batteries, 3 for each camera. Sometimes you will have power and other times the lodges conserve power and you may not get a chance to fully charge your batteries. Having extra battery power will ensure you have at least two days of shooting power.

Bring two battery chargers, a small power bar and international power converter. A power bar will allow you to charge two batteries and still be able to work and edit on your laptop. At some lodges, Ndutu for example, there are central charging areas where everyone plugs in the batteries to charge… so mark your batteries as I have seen these central charging areas packed with laptops, and battery chargers before bedtime.

You will easily go through 16gig of memory a day. You are constantly shooting animals and landscapes. I brought 6 - 16gig Sandisk Extreme PRO memory cards and 6 - 8gig Sandisk Extreme PRO memory cards. It offered redundancy and gave me enough memory if I needed it. Expect to take between 800 to 1200 photos a day while on safari. It may sound like a lot, but when you are shooting moving animals you can easy take 20 to 30 images in a few minutes.

Laptop and an external hard drive will give you two copies of your images… save one to your laptop and one to your external drive to ensure you have a backup.

Bring a tripod. I brought a Monfrotto 290 series tripod with pano head. (When travelling I put into my duffle bag that was checked)

Apex mini bean bag is a must. It stabilizes your camera on top of the vehicle when you are looking out the hatch. Some guides will have small homemade bean bags… a life saver for those that come that are not prepared.

External flash and flash extender. While there are minimal opportunities to shoot at night, having that flash illuminates animals in shade and will give you the reach you need to take better exposed photos when animals are not sitting in optimal light.

Bring camera straps for your camera. I brought black rapid camera straps for both my bodies.

Make sure you bring wired or remote control for cameras as there is fantastic opportunities for low light photography.

It is always a good idea to bring rain cover for my camera and lenses
 
Bring a wide angle lens, a medium length lens and a longer telephoto lens. I brought the following:
Sigma 12-24mm f4.5-5.6 for landscape photos - used extensively
Sigma 24-70mm f2.8 for walking around and landscape photos - rarely used
Sigma 70-200 f2.8 for close animals and portrait photos - used extensively
Sigma 150-500 f5.6-6.3 for the safari drives - used extensively

How to travel with your gear... I have both a roller bag and a large back pack. Both would work fine. The roller bag makes travelling easier and the back pack is easier when out on safari.

I hope that helps you in making your gear suggestions for your trip of a lifetime to Africa… or any other global destination.

Please check out my workshops at www.photographerslounge.net

Thursday, 16 May 2013

Species Spotlight - Kori Bustard


Kori Bustard in the middle of a mating call.
The Kori Bustard is cryptically colored, being mostly grey and brown in color, finely patterned with black and white coloring. The ventral plumage is more boldly colored, with white, black and buff. The crest on its head is blackish in coloration, with less black on the female's crest. A black collar at the base of the hind-neck extends onto the sides of the breast. The feathers around the neck are loose, giving the appearance of a thick neck. The belly is white and the tail has broad bands of brownish-gray and white coloration. The head is large and the yellow legs are relatively long. Females are similar in plumage but are much smaller, often weighing 2-3 times less than the male. The juvenile is similar in appearance to the female, but are browner with more spotting on the mantle.

The male Kori Bustard is 120 to 150 cm (3.9 to 4.9 ft), stands 71–120 cm (2.33–3.9 ft) tall and have a wingspan about 230 to 275 cm (7.5 to 9.02 ft). On average, male birds weigh between 10.9–16 kg (24–35 lb), averaging 13.5 kg (30 lb) but exceptional birds may weigh up to 20 kg (44 lb). Reports of outsized specimens weighing 23 kg (51 lb), 34 kg (75 lb) and even 40 kg (88 lb) have been reported, but none of these giant sizes have been verified and some may be from unreliable sources. Among bustards, only male Great Bustards achieve similarly high weights, making the male Kori and Great not only the two largest bustards, but also arguably the heaviest living flying animals. The female Kori Bustard weighs an average of 4.8 to 6.1 kg (11 to 13 lb), with a range of 4.3 to 6.6 kg (9.5 to 15 lb). Female length is from 80 to 120 cm (2.6 to 3.9 ft) and they usually stand less than 60 cm (2.0 ft) tall and have a wingspan of less than 220 cm (7.2 ft). The wing chord can measure from 58.5 to 83 cm (23.0 to 33 in), the tail measures from 30–45 cm (12–18 in), the culmen from 7 to 12.5 cm (2.8 to 4.9 in) and the tarsus from 16 to 24.5 cm (6.3 to 9.6 in). Body size is generally greater in the populations of southern Africa and body mass can vary based upon rain conditions.

Behavior

Kori Bustards spend most of their time on the ground, though can forage occasionally in low bushes and trees. Being a large and heavy bird, it avoids flying if possible. This bustard is a watchful and wary bird. Their behavior varies however, and they are usually very shy, running or crouching at the first sign of danger; at other times they can be completely fearless of humans. This large bird has a loud, booming mating call which is often uttered just before dawn and can be heard from far away. Locally, they are regularly found with bee-eaters riding on their backs as they stride through the grass. The bee-eaters make the most of their walking perch by hawking insects from the bustard's back that are disturbed by

The male's mating call a deep, resonant woum-woum-woum-woum (Ginn et al. 1989) or oom-oom-oom (Sinclair & Ryan 2003) or wum, wum, wum, wum, wummm . This call ends with the bill snapping which is only audible at close range. They also utter a ca-caa-ca, repeated several times for up to 10 minutes. This call carries long distances. Outside of the breeding display, Kori Bustards are often silent. A high alarm call, generally uttered by females, is sometimes heard. They utter a deep vum on takeoff.

Information from Wikipedia

Photographs of lightning - tips and gear suggestions for getting the best photographs



On my recent trip to Africa I saw some distant lightning and it got me excited for some new lightning experiences back home and in South America.

If you are a photographer and a thrill seeker, taking pictures of storms and thunderstorms just might satisfy your desire to get out there and capture the raw power of Mother Nature.

I have done this a few times over this year, and I will say, “Once you track down a storm, the photography aspect of catching a flash of Lightning is the easy part. Set the camera up, preset the settings, pull out the remote and snap off a couple hundred images in the direction of a storm. The part that separates the amateur from the professional is identifying where the different types of Lightning are going to occur and matching that with an interesting and focused foreground.

Thunderstorms are an elusive occurrence in nature that is not stationary and will rarely co-operate with you. Not only that, but depending on where you live, most storms won't come to you - you'll have to go to them. So be prepared as storm and lightning photography will present a challenging pursuit for those who are so inclined.

There is a science to read weather patterns and forecast where storm fronts will occur, and I could give you hundreds of meteorology websites and publications where you could learn them, but for the sake of this article, we will stick with the basics and direct you to watch the weather network or look at environment Canada’s site for storms and lightning strikes. To Access this website in Canada please go to http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/radar/index_e.html. Another handy way to identify if lightening is in the area is to use your AM Radio and find an unused band. Lightening produces radio waves called sferics. Theses sudden pops and crackles are a good way to identify local activity.

But before you leave your house, remember some storm chasing gear. I would make sure that you have packed the following items with you any time you go out on a storm-shooting expedition.
•A flashlight as you will be out in the dark most times.
•A glow stick that you should tie on your tripod so that you can see where it is at all times.
•Insect repellent because many times you will be out in the country and with many heavy storms comes stale, humid weather that will bring mosquitoes.
•Take some cash for emergencies
•Take your charged cell Phone, some snacks and beverages for some long waits.
•Dry Clothes because if you are out of the vehicle, you will get wet more times than not.
•A rain cover for your camera
•A rain coat or rain suit to keep yourself dry


The Camera
Ideally, a DSLR with a 'bulb' shutter setting is the best for taking photos of lightning. Some less expensive DSLR or point-and-shoot digital cameras without a bulb function can be set on a fixed long exposure setting, such as 10 to 20 second exposures. I encourage you to check your camera's manual to see what the long exposure settings/maximum shutter speed times are. Ideally, an exposure time of at least 10 seconds is necessary for the best performance and versatility for any lightning shoot.

Cameras used in any type of storm chasing will have to endure harsh conditions and lots of abuse (especially moisture), so you may want to think twice before using your $2,000 camera to shoot lightning. Unless you've invested in a waterproof camera or proper protective gear as I have. Or, just go on eBay and buy a manual SLR for $150-$200.

The Exposure
It's hard to go wrong with an exposure of lightning. Aim the camera, hold open the shutter, and wait. If lightning strikes where you aimed, you got it! Usually you will go through dozens of frames before actually catching a lightening bolt, meaning that you won't actually have lightning in every picture on your disk (unless you're having a very good night). You might want to experiment with exposure settings for different scenes, but as a general rule, use the following:

Use the ISO 100 setting for best results in all lightning situations.

Rural Areas at Night: Focus at infinity, F-stop between F5.6 - F10. When lightning gets very close (within 1 mile, less than 5 seconds between flash-thunder), use an F-stop of F10 - F16. You'll also want to use F8 if you want to expose multiple bolts over a long period of time. In rural areas with little or no ambient light, you can leave your shutter open indefinitely until a lightning bolt flashes in your frame.

Urban Areas at Night: Focus at infinity, F-stop of F5.6 for a maximum exposure time of 10-15 seconds depending on the level of ambient light. Or, F-stop of F8 for 20 to 35 seconds. For best results, expose the scene as you would without lightning, and the lightning will take care of its own exposure when it flashes in the background. It is best to first do several test exposures of the ambient scene so see what works best.

The Lens
The lens you use is entirely up to you, but can vary depending on your location. I personally like to use a wider lens - typically my 11-22mm f/2.8, because it gives me more sky coverage without much distortion. A wider lens increases the chance that you will get a bolt to strike in the field of view. A telephoto lens can be useful for distant thunderstorms in areas with high visibilities such as the desert Southwest and the central Plains regions in the USA. In the east coast areas of Canada and the US, terrain and trees tend to obscure distant lightning on the horizon, meaning that lightning channels won't be visible until they are close - in which case you'll want to use the wide-angle configuration. But keep your telephoto lens on standby in case you get a photogenic distant storm.

It's also best to avoid the use of filters (ND, UV, etc) when shooting lightning. Additional layers of glass can cause reflections and 'ghosting' of bright light sources like lightning.

Tripod and Cable Release
You will need a tripod to hold your camera steady during time exposures. Virtually any brand and type of tripod will work, though generally, the more expensive brands tend to last longer and be more sturdy. But even a $20 tripod from Wal-Mart will get the job done.

You might also want to consider a small tripod or clamp mount that you can set up inside of your car, enabling you to photograph out of the window.

A cable release or shutter release is a small, flexible device that plugs into a camera's shutter trigger. In the case of a DSLR, cable releases are electrical switches with a cord that plugs onto a socket on the camera. A cable release allows you to open and close the shutter without touching/jarring the camera. Most cable releases have a locking device that lets you hold the shutter open for long periods of time hands-free.

Aperture
Since the brightness of lightning, for all intents and purposes, is the same in any situation (day, night, urban, or rural), you will always want to keep your aperture between F5.6 and F11, regardless of any ambient light levels. Closing the aperture beyond F11 will allow for longer exposure times, but you will also be restricting the amount of light exposed by the lightning itself, which will result in thinner, underexposed bolts. In addition to that, any street lighting will then have a starburst effect.

Opening the aperture beyond F5.6 in most cases will overexpose or 'white out' the lightning channels (and even the clouds), resulting in wide, bright white columns of light enshrouding the bolts. You will find that some bolts are more intense than others - meaning that a strike may still overexpose at F8 or underexpose at F5.6. It is nearly impossible, however, to accurately predict how bright each strike will be, so just keep to the known averages. Not every bolt will come out perfectly.

Location, Location, LocationO
ften, the most difficult, frustrating, and time-consuming part of lightning photography is simply finding a good place to take pictures. You will usually need to 'scout out' and make notes of good places to shoot - preferably during the day before the storms arrive. Ideally, a good setup location needs:
1. An unbroken view of the sky. Unsightly power lines and tree branches across your photo usually will detract from the drama of the image. It's true that some photographers have incorporated power lines into their photos on purpose with very good results. But as a general rule, it's best to avoid any wires across your frame. Keep in mind that power lines are hard to see at night, and usually won't show up in your picture until you get your film developed. In most parts of the country, vantage points free of these obstructions are very hard to find.

2. Low ambient light levels close to the camera. Streetlights and car headlights will force you to either cut your exposures short or accept strong glares on your image. Keep this in mind when choosing a location. (This rule can be broken for special situations where you want to be creative).

3. Protection from the elements. Rain and lightning should be a concern when considering a setup location. Lightning is an obvious threat to your safety, while raindrops on your camera lens will reflect/refract light and ruin a good photo. Parking garages, highway underpasses, and large buildings can keep you and your camera safe from both. Setting up inside your car may be an option, but is one that provides less shelter from rain. Heavy rain or wind will end a lightning photo session, even at the best locations, due to fine mist and spray that forms as a result of rain splashing onto the ground. If your dedication levels are high, you can carry a rag out with you to wipe the lens dry every 15 seconds or so.

Breaking the Rules
These suggestions are only general guidelines for lightning photos. When the time and place is right, you might want to 'break the rules'. For instance, in some cases, there will be an object across the sky that will add to a photo rather than detract from it, such as a building, bridge or national monument like the photo of the Crazy Horse Memorial below.

Composition
In your lightning shot, you'll always want to include the horizon and part of the ground in your photo, rather than just pointing your camera up at the sky. Aside from lightning in urban scenes, use of the 'rule or thirds' is not always desirable, since the ground will usually be totally black in the exposure. You'll want more of a 4/5ths or 5/6ths sky, 1/6th ground configuration to give you more of a 'canvas' for the lightning to pose on.

For closer lightning, you might want to include a little more of the ground in the event that a bolt strikes nearby - allowing the lightning's contact point with the ground to be captured

Final Thought
Plan ahead and be patient! Always be ready for a storm- most of them will come up unexpectedly. Have your camera ready and memory card loaded. Figure out ahead of time where you can safely set up your camera.

There is no guarantee you will get a good picture every time. But, if you are persistent you will be successful.

Finally, I want to say… I am not condoning that you attempt this type of photography. It is dangerous and if you do so, it is at your own risk. I will not be liable for any personal injury or structural damage due to your lightning photography outing(s). Know what you are doing, and stay safe!

Lightning Adventure of a Lifetime
If you want to join me on the lightening photography experience of a lifetime, check out this workshop to Venezuela. I am going to see the Catatumbo lightening in October of 2013 with Len Silvester, www.ttlphoto.com ... Check out this link as I have put up photos of the Catatumbo Lightning...

Food that you eat on an african safari


 
One question that I often get from clients booking their African safari with the Photographer’s Lounge is what is the food going to be like on Safari?

The food is fresh and tasty. Our chefs will cook you some amazing meals with basic equipment. think hot and fresh breads + beef and veggie mishkaki [barbeque] using a coal grill + organic salad plucked from the garden right around the corner.

All food is well prepared. Our well trained camp chef and crew will come up with gourmet meals in the middle of the bush. They really want you to enjoy their culinary experience.

We can also easily accommodate any vegetarian requirements and any Halal requests.

On Safari you normally start off your day with a wake-up call. You can start really early should you have chosen to go on a sunrise morning game drive or morning walking Safari like you can do most days. On these days, our breakfasts are prepared and stored in a lunch box so we can eat at our leisure from a location out in the conservation areas… we eat amongst the roaming herds of animals and enjoy the sights with our fresh brewed coffee, tea and food.

If you choose to stay back in the morning, You will sit on your lovely patio and have your cookie or biscuits as we say and sip your hot cuppa tea or coffee listening to the sounds of the wild and watching the sun rise. A perfect morning on Safari!

A good breakfast to start off the day full of adventures. You are going to have an array of options. Cereals, variety of juices, eggs with warm bread sometimes cooked in the bush for a bush breakfast, bacon and potatoes and more.  Nothing like having the most important meal of the day with a great view in the Serengeti.

Game driving is tough! Our vehicles carry water, soft drinks, juice and snacks which you can enjoy during your game drive. In some areas, you can stop, set a table and enjoy your snack with the animals close by. Don’t worry. Our guides will choose an open area away from the thick bushes. Prepare to enjoy your mid-morning or afternoon snack.

For lunch, again we have our lunches premade if we are out on safari… The food is fresh, kept in a refrigerator in the vehicle and we place out a picnic table to serve you your lunches from different areas while we are out on safari.

Dinner time is always the best time. Together we sit back, discuss the events of the day over a chilled glass of wine or the drink of choice. We chatting with other Safari goers or share a meal with the camp manager and share stories that go beyond the parks you are visiting.  Bush dinners are also available for those who want a private dinner or just want to sit under the stars. Bon appetite!

Then tomorrow, the wonderful cycle begins again.

Please join us in April of 2014 when we return to the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Conservation area. See the details here... http://www.photographers-lounge.com/international-workshops/2014-workshops/tanzania-photo-safari/

Wednesday, 15 May 2013

DUSTY, STAR OF “DISNEY’S PLANES” TO APPEAR AT WATERLOO AIR SHOW!


June 1 & 2
 
 
May 15, 2013 -- The summer release of “Disney’s Planes,” the animated comedy adventure from above the world of the popular 2006 film “Cars,” has the entire aviation community buzzing. “Disney’s Planes” captures all of the thrill and excitement that flying has to offer—plus a lot of heart and humour.

For thousands of air-show attendees, the movie will jump to life with Dusty’s flying performance at select air shows across North America. Dusty will show off his talents, communicate with the crowd and be accompanied by an exclusive and uplifting Disney musical score.

‘Disney’s Planes’ is a great underdog story, said director and aviation enthusiast Klay Hall. “It has a lot of heart and a message we can all use: If we can believe in ourselves, step out of our comfort zones and get past whatever fear is holding us back, we’d be surprised with the results. And that’s exactly what happens to Dusty in this movie. He’s a crop duster who’s never flown above 1,000 feet, but he dreams of being the fastest air racer in the world. He has a lot of obstacles to overcome and needs to dig pretty deep to find the courage to become more than he was built for.”

David White, Co-Producer of the Waterloo Air Show added: “The Waterloo Air Show is a wonderful family event and we are absolutely thrilled to be a part of the ultimate family experience with this very special appearance of Dusty from ‘Disney’s Planes.’ We invite those of all ages to join us for this most unique event.”

The owner and pilot of the aircraft tapped to play the role of Dusty in the air show performances is Texas-based aerial applicator Rusty Lindeman, who customized one of his own Air Tractor AT-301 airplanes to match Dusty’s paint scheme and features. Manufactured in Olney, Texas, Air Tractor aircraft are used for agricultural spraying, seeding and fertilizing, plus forestry protection, fire fighting and more in the U.S. and more than 30 countries around the world. “We’re happy to help bring Dusty to life for the performances and hope that the audience will have fun and learn a bit more about the importance of aerial application in modern agriculture,” said Air Tractor’s Kristin Edwards.

Air Tractor's founder, Leland Snow, designed, built and flew his own purpose-built crop duster in 1953 and devoted his career to designing bigger and better aircraft for aerial application.

ABOUT THE MOVIE

From above the world of “Cars” comes “Disney’s Planes,” an action-packed 3D animated comedy adventure featuring Dusty (voice of Dane Cook), a plane with dreams of competing as a high-flying air racer. But Dusty’s not exactly built for racing—and he happens to be afraid of heights. So he turns to a seasoned naval aviator who helps Dusty qualify to take on the defending champ of the race circuit. Dusty’s courage is put to the ultimate test as he aims to reach heights he never dreamed possible, giving a spellbound world the inspiration to soar. Featuring a talented roster of voice talent, including Stacy Keach, Brad Garrett, Teri Hatcher, Julia Louis-Dreyfus and more, “Disney’s Planes” takes off in theatres on Aug. 9, 2013. For more information, check out Disney.com/Planes, like us on Facebook: facebook.com/DisneyPlanes or facebook.com/WaltDisneyStudiosCanada and follow us on Twitter: twitter.com/DisneyPictures.

About the Waterloo Air Show

The Waterloo Air Show will take place June 1st and 2nd, 2013, at the Region of Waterloo International Airport. It is a two-day family-friendly event that showcases some of the best skills and entertainment the aviation industry has to offer. With displays both in the air and on the ground, guests can enjoy amazing aerial demonstrations headlined by the world-famous Canadian Forces Snowbirds, while exploring exhibits, vendors, additional aircraft on the ground, kids activities, an Autograph Tent, Food Truck Alley and more.

More information and online tickets can be found at www.waterlooairshow.com.

Join the community on Facebook.

Come out to the Region of Waterloo International Airport June 1 & 2 and let your wings soar.

The Cape Buffalo, one of Africa's BIG 5 animals...



Cape Buffalo, one of Africa's "BIG 5 animals", are commonly found in protected wildlife areas (that have plenty of water), throughout sub-Saharan Africa. Four sub-species of African Buffalo have been recognized and basically reflect the different type of regions and habitats they live in: Forest Buffalo (S. c. nanus); West African Savanna Buffalo (S. c. brachyceros); Central African Savanna Buffalo (S. c. aequinoctialis); and Southern Savanna Buffalo (S. c. caffer). The forest buffalo are smaller than those found in the savanna.

Cape buffalo are large, adults stand 4-6 feet tall and males weigh in at around 700 kg's (1500 lb's). Even lions don't dare take a chunk out of this beast unless they have friends helping them. Cape Buffalo are said to have killed more big game hunters than any other animal in Africa and are one of Africa's most dangerous animals. Needless to say, the Cape buffalo has never been domesticated, but if left alone they are quite placid, just like their bovine brethren.

This is just one of the amazing animals we see on our African Safari's. Please see our next trip back here, http://www.photographers-lounge.com/international-workshops/2014-workshops/tanzania-photo-safari/