Showing posts with label kpepphotography. Show all posts
Showing posts with label kpepphotography. Show all posts

Monday, 15 July 2013

Species Spotlight - Snowy Owl


 
The Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus) is a large owl of the typical owl family Strigidae. Until recently, it was regarded as the sole member of a distinct genus, but data now shows that it is very closely related to the horned owls.

This yellow-eyed, black-beaked white bird is easily recognizable. It is 52–71 centimetres (20–28 in) long, with a 125–150 centimetres (49–59 in) wingspan. Also, these birds can weigh anywhere from 1.6 to 3 kilograms (3.5 to 6.6 lb). It is one of the largest species of owl and, in North America, is on average the heaviest owl species. The adult male is virtually pure white, but females and young birds have some dark scalloping; the young are heavily barred, and dark spotting may even predominate. Its thick plumage, heavily feathered taloned feet, and colouration render the Snowy Owl well-adapted for life north of the Arctic Circle.

Snowy Owl calls are varied, but the alarm call is a barking, almost quacking krek-krek; the female also has a softer mewling pyee-pyee or prek-prek. The song is a deep repeated gahw. They may also clap their beak in response to threats or annoyances. While called clapping, it is believed this sound may actually be a clicking of the tongue, not the beak.

Young owl on the tundra at Barrow Alaska. Snowy Owls lose their black feathers with age, though particular females retain some.

The Snowy Owl is typically found in the northern circumpolar region, where it makes its summer home north of latitude 60 degrees north. However, it is a particularly nomadic bird, and because population fluctuations in its prey species can force it to relocate, it has been known to breed at more southerly latitudes.

This species of owl nests on the ground, building a scrape on top of a mound or boulder. A site with
good visibility such as the top of mound with ready access to hunting areas, and a lack of snow is chosen. Gravel bars and abandoned eagle nests may be used. The female scrapes a small hollow before laying the eggs. Breeding occurs in May to June, and depending on the amount of prey available, clutch sizes range from 5 to 14 eggs, which are laid singly, approximately every other day over the course of several days. Hatching takes place approximately five weeks after laying, and the pure white young are cared for by both parents. Although the young hatch asynchronously, with the largest in the brood sometimes 10 to 15 times as heavy as the smallest, there is little sibling conflict and no evidence of siblicide. Both the male and the female defend the nest and their young from predators, sometimes by distraction displays. Males may mate with two females which may nest about a kilometre apart.[3] Some individuals stay on the breeding grounds while others migrate.

Snowy Owls nest in the Arctic tundra of the northermost stretches of Alaska, Canada, and Eurasia. They winter south through Canada and northern Eurasia, with irruptions occurring further south in some years. Snowy Owls are attracted to open areas like coastal dunes and prairies that appear somewhat similar to tundra. They have been reported as far south as the American states of Texas, Georgia, the American Gulf states, southernmost Russia, and northern China.

In January 2009, a Snowy Owl appeared in Spring Hill, Tennessee, the first reported sighting in the state since 1987. More notable is the huge mass southern migration in the winter of 2011/2012, when thousands of Snowy Owls were spotted in various locations across the United States.

This powerful bird relies primarily on lemmings and other small rodents for food during the breeding season, but at times of low prey density, or during the ptarmigan nesting period, they may switch to favoring juvenile ptarmigan. They are opportunistic hunters and prey species may vary considerably, especially in winter. They feed on a wide variety of small mammals such as meadow voles and deer mice, but will take advantage of larger prey, frequently following traplines to find food. Some of the larger mammal prey includes hares, muskrats, marmots, squirrels, rabbits, raccoons, prairie dogs, rats, moles, and smaller birds entrapped furbearers. Birds preyed upon include ptarmigan, other ducks, geese, shorebirds, pheasants, grouse, coots, grebes, gulls, songbirds, and even other raptors, including other owl species. Most of the owls' hunting is done in the "sit and wait" style; prey may be captured on the ground, in the air or fish may be snatched off the surface of bodies of water using their sharp talons. Each bird must capture roughly 7 to 12 mice per day to meet its food requirement and can eat more than 1,600 lemmings per year.

Snowy Owls, like many other birds, swallow their small prey whole. Strong stomach juices digest the flesh, while the indigestible bones, teeth, fur, and feathers are compacted into oval pellets that the bird regurgitates 18 to 24 hours after feeding. Regurgitation often takes place at regular perches, where dozens of pellets may be found. Biologists frequently examine these pellets to determine the quantity and types of prey the birds have eaten. When large prey are eaten in small pieces, pellets will not be produced.

Though Snowy Owls have few predators, the adults are very watchful and are equipped to defend against any kind of threat towards them or their offspring. During the nesting season, the owls regularly defend their nests against arctic foxes, corvids and swift-flying jaegers; as well as dogs, gray wolves and avian predators. Males defend the nest by standing guard nearby while the female incubates the eggs and broods the young. Both sexes attack approaching predators, dive-bombing them and engaging in distraction displays to draw the predator away from a nest. They also compete directly for lemmings and other prey with several predators, including Rough-legged Hawks, Golden Eagles, Peregrine Falcons, Gyrfalcons, jaegers, Glaucous Gulls, Short-eared Owls, Great Horned Owls, Eurasian Eagle Owls, Common Ravens, wolves, arctic foxes, and ermine. They are normally dominant over other raptors although may (sometimes fatally) lose in conflicts to large raptors such as other Bubo owls, Golden Eagles and the smaller but much faster Peregrine Falcons. Some species nesting near Snowy Owl nests, such as the Snow Goose, seem to benefit from the incidental protection of snowy owls that drive competing predators out of the area.

Info courtesy of Wikipedia

Sunday, 6 January 2013

Extending Your Battery Life

Has this ever happened to you?

You are somewhere, miles away from your home and you see “the shot”, you compose, focus, maybe shoot a couple test shots, meter the lighting… and the battery dies… “insert expletives here”

Well, I thought I would put out a few things to keep in mind for optimum battery life and to help you not every be in the situation above…

Tip 1: Keep the camera LCD Use to a Minimum

The one part of your digital camera that uses up the most power is the LCD screen. Every time you open up this digital display you are presented with a view of what the camera sees in real-time, meaning that the display has to be refreshed multiple times every second to show you the actual photo you will take. Keeping usage of the LCD screen to a minimum will definitely help your charged battery last much longer!

Tip 2: Manage Photos While Your Batteries Charge

Another easy way to cut down on the amount of power drained from your batteries is to wait until you can plug your camera into an AC adaptor before you start to manage your photos inside the camera. This is an important tip to remember - you may enjoy deleting, and viewing your photos on the go, but it will leave you with much less power to take that one photo that makes the outing worthwhile.

Tip 3: Try Not to Use the Memory Card

This tip goes hand in hand with my previous tip. But, it also plays an important factor in keeping enough life in your camera batteries to take those important photos! The camera uses up a lot of power every time that you access the memory card, so keep this in mind before reviewing every photo that you take while relying solely on battery power.

Tip 4: Don’t Mix Different Types of Batteries

Keeping the same types of batteries together can help to conserve power in digital cameras as well as most other battery-powered devices. This is mostly because the performance of older batteries will not be as good as newer ones, and they will drain much faster. Another important reason to remember this tip is that mixing different types of batteries can be dangerous – the batteries can become damaged and even leak, which in turn could end up damaging your digital camera over time.

Tip 5: Let Batteries Run Out

Letting batteries completely run out of power before recharging them can help them to last longer as well as increase their performance. Something that people tend to forget is that just because your batteries aren’t holding enough energy to run your camera it doesn’t mean that they are entirely empty of power.

Tuesday, 21 August 2012

Guest Blogger - Deborah Sandidge - Long Exposure Photography using Neutral Density Filters

I am blessed to have met some truly inspiring photographers on my own personal photographic journey. This woman in particular is one of those photographers i have been following for the past four years on some of photo sharing websites. Now we are going to be working together. I will get the chance to see her take images and teach others on the workshop and photo tours we will be co-leading... who knows, maybe I will teach her a couple of things as well... LOL
 
This post of Deb's is exceptional, and discusses one of my favorite types of photography, "long exposure photography with ND filters"... take it away Deb...
 
Long Exposure Photography using Neutral Density Filters
 
Copyright Deborah Sandidge
 
 I was pleased to be able to finally receive the coveted Lee Big Stopper, a 10 stop neutral density filter. It's a challenge to be able to find one in stock, anywhere. You may be able to find a B+W 10 stop, or variable ND which are screw on filters mounting on the lens, compared to Big Stopper which slides in the Lee foundation holder along with any other desired filters. I've used both types of filters, and prefer the stacking slide in type filters. Big Stopper decreases the amount of light entering the camera by 10 stops, giving the photographer the opportunity to control the length of exposure for creative effects. A second neutral density filter, a reverse graduated, can be used to balance light in the sky area. This allows the photographer to work during the daylight hours, rather than the edge of night or day.

Using a 10 stop ND filter is like using an infrared filter, as the filter is too dark to easily see though to focus. To use the filter, compose, meter and a focus first, then mount the filter on the lens (and turn off autofocus). If you have Live View, this will easily allow you to position a graduated ND at the horizon line. A 3 stop reverse neutral density graduated filter holds back brightness at the horizon line and fades towards the top of the filter, this works well for me in most cases. A 10 stop ND filter creates a silky blur with water and softens clouds for an artistic look through the extended exposure time. How much  the clouds blur depends on how fast or slow they move during  the exposure, time. but a cloudless day can be very interesting too.
 
You can also create a silky blur with water by shooting early morning or late evening, stopping down so that the exposure is long as possible. A polarizer can help with this automatically. If you want to accentuate the look or shoot during the day, neutral density filters can be used to slow down the exposure even more. Anything goes compositionally, however the elements of sky and water fit together for a dramatic image. Exposure time can run into minutes. You'll need...
  • Tripod, and cable release, bulb mode (Nikon MC-36, or similar)
  • Neutral density filters 
  • Timer (I use stopwatch on the iPhone)
  • Exposure calculator (free app, Longtime Exposure Calculator)
  • Close, or cover the eyepiece window 
  • Use Mirror Lock-up, lowest ISO
Meter for the exposure without the filter attached, focus and compose. Turn off autofocus. Calculate the exposure for the neutral density filter, 10 stops, plus the metered exposure time. For example using a 10 stop neutral density filter with a metered exposure time of 1/125 equals 8 seconds with the filter attached. LongTime Exposure Calculator is a handy app and it's free, below is a screenshot. I generally add more time to this, but you get the idea.
 
I set the white balance to 9000K+ using the Lee Big Stopper for the first image, however this can be tweaked in Photoshop or Lightroom. There is a slight color cast that may occur, and using a custom white balance or dialing in a custom setting seems to do the trick, although a color cast may work for the scene you are shooting. Converting to black and white creates a fine art look that is very expressive without color. 

Long exposures using neutral density filters can capture beautiful color in an image, and convey the passage of time for a surreal and compelling photograph. This gives the photographer more options during the day for an alternative type of composition. Have fun shooting! ~ Deb
 
To see the whole post with some more amazing images please visit Deb's blog here
 
To check out the first workshop Deb and I will be leading together, please visit http://www.photographers-lounge.com/photo-tours/our-2013-photo-tours/mongolia-photo-tour/

Wednesday, 4 April 2012

Out of the mouths of babes

As I sit in my living room I can only imagine what is in store for me in just a little over 12 months and 3228 Kilometers (2006 miles) north of me in the Arctic Circle.

But before we look forward, let’s go back a few weeks to a conversation with my daughter. She is in high school and like any high school student; thinking about her future. She has decided that she wants to work with endangered animals. Doing her research she came across Coke and their program in working with World Wildlife Fund. She asked how they are making a difference. I couldn’t answer her and decided to do my own research to see what it is that they were doing.

The program is more about climate change than about the Canadian iconic animal, the Polar Bear. The real focus is on what threatens the Polar Bears. These large carnivores are sensitive indicators of ecosystem health. Polar bears are actually studied to get an understanding of what is happening throughout the Arctic. A polar bear at risk is a sign of something wrong somewhere in the arctic marine ecosystem.

So, after my reading I talked to my daughter about what I found. I could tell her wheels were still spinning… but secretly so were mine after I read one line on the Polar Bears International Website. I read that by 2080 there may be no ice left in Hudson Bay. I thought to myself, “that’s major, as a kid studying Canada; Hudson Bay was the iconic frozen bay explorers crossed. Images of explorers breaking through ice and yanking wooden boats over ice immediately came to mind. Since 1670 when the King of England first granted the Hudson Bay company a fur trade monopoly for all the lands drained by rivers flowing into Hudson's Bay we have changed the climate that much?”

As a nature photographer I wondered how I could do my part. I made some calls, talked to a few friends and started to formulate an idea… and now, out of a simple question from a 15 year old high school student in rural Ontario a plan was formed that will hopefully touch people across Canada and around the world.

The team has been assembled… Ethan Meleg, John E. Marriott, Kevin Pepper and Tim Vollmer will be embarking on an expedition to the Arctic circle and stay close to the floe edge. The goal is to capture what we see in photos, talk to local Inuits about how the changes have affected their lives, interview scientists about statistical information and trends and have conversations with Canada’s leading conservation minds... out of this, an awareness story in photos and words that shows people just how much the arctic has changed.

Working with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) our goal is not only to create awareness but raise funds that will be donated to WWF to help them continue their work.

While we are in the arctic we will be sending back daily blogs and twitter feeds about the day’s findings and sharing our photos through our media partners that will be helping us communicate to you what we are experiencing. You will be able to follow us in real time and share in our experience.

Right now we are structuring the actual expedition route and having conversations with numerous potential product and cash sponsors to help us achieve our goals.

Stay tuned, come back weekly, and you can follow us from today right through the next year as we prepare for our expedition.

Over the next year I will keep you up to speed on media partners, sponsors, our expedition plans and discuss what we find as we start our interviews and our personal learning’s about the cause that brings us together for the 2013 arctic expedition to the Arctic Circle.

Thanks for reading,
Kev

Friday, 20 January 2012

How Important is the Internet and Social Media for a photographers business

Here are a few stats that I wanted to share with you...

36% of consumers depend on social media to make purchase decisions

49% of canadians use social media every day

1/4 of consumers prefer co's that use social media

50% of active facebook users login every day

More than 250 million photos uploaded on facebook every day

Mobile already generates 7 - 10% of your web traffic without a proactive mobile marketing initiative

36% of people doing mobile searches online take action immediately, 39% within the hour

Today, one in seven searches on Google are on Mobile. Is your website optimized for searches done on smart phones?

85% of people using search click on a Pay per click (PPC) ad less than once a mth

Your clients are 4x more likely to engage in the sales process if you respond to an email in under 5 minutes

Thursday, 15 December 2011

An Interview with Kevin Pepper

please click the link below to read an interview i gave about my growth from an amateur photographer to professional

please click here

Sunday, 16 October 2011

Plan, Practice, Repeat... and ... "VOILA", a keeper

One of my favorite quotes about photography is from Ansel Adams. It reads, “Sometimes I do get to places just when God's ready to have somebody click the shutter.”

To be honest, sometimes there is a luck factor. We decide to go somewhere and shoot a scene that we have wanted to get to… we show up, and it’s like the script was written. The clouds were perfect, the sun was what we wanted, and the scene lay out as we had hoped.

But how many times does this really happen? For people that have been shooting for less than a few years, or are just weekend warriors, this is probably not something you think about too much. You are happy to get out with friends and to be taking photographs of a subject that you like to photograph.

As you become more seasoned, maybe you have taken 20,000, 30,000 or 40,000 photos, you started to sell a few images, and are now investing in better gear; your desire to take better shots increases and you want to travel to some of these inspiring locations you read about. But you seemed to hit a wall; you’re not getting any better, it’s not for lack of trying, but for lack of something… But what is that “something”?

Well, it’s a combination of a little research, learning some basic tips and following the steps I discuss below…

Long Term
The best possible weather is preferred when shooting a location, that’s a no brainer. But what is that ideal weather? Only you can answer that. Rain is less than desirable time to shoot unless you want that desired effect. Sunny blue skies can be a plus, but then again, too high in the sky and your photos will not be ideal. Every location and every subject demands only a few types of atmosphere to walk away with a great photo.

First, decide where you want to go and what you want to photograph there. Find out what is the best time of the year at that location to photograph your subject of interest. Let’s look at the west coast of Canada. Some prefer to shoot mountains in all their snowy, sun kissed glory. Others prefer fall when the trees are still visible and the upslope fog really enhances mood. Neither are bad, its just personal preference.

For me, it’s later in August when I want to be there. This time of year is affectionately referred to as “Fogust”.



Short Term
Many of us don’t photograph landscapes and wildlife for a living; we visit places hoping to capture stunning images during our vacation travel. We want to book ahead of time, find deals on airline tickets, hotels and rental cars. That means you are going to have to gamble a bit with the weather and hope for the best. The tradeoff here is to wait enough to get a reading on the extended forecast while trying to keep things within budget. Ideally if it’s possible, wait till a week before and plan. If only we could all plan last minute…

Last year we went to my uncle’s cottage in the spring. While the weather was perfect as predicted. What we didn’t think about was mosquitoes and black flies. So what did we do, we turned our sour grapes about the local blood suckers into a beautiful glass of wine.



On the Day
So you have done all your phenomenal research and you end up at your dream spot to click away and fill up that 32GB SD card. Now what? Understand your subject and correlate the subject with the weather that has been bestowed upon you. If all you have is an overcast day, chase waterfalls. You can shoot the entire day with the cloud cover posing as a soft box. With some creativity, a lot more options open up. If you are set to have bright blue skies, shoot around dusk and dawn and scout locations during mid-day.

If your all set up at sunset on the lake ready to shoot a cloudy sunset and the clouds and storm clouds move in, take cover and watch for the light show.



The Final Moment
You have found your spot and setup your gear and tripod ready to hit that shutter. It might seem like a trivial thing but the exact moment you hit the shutter might make or break your shot.

When shooting sunsets on the beach, try waiting and time the waves. A receding wave going back towards the ocean looks more pleasing on the shot. Wait for the wave to come in all the way, and hit that shutter when the wave hits the farthest point inland, so that your shutter is open when the wave starts to recede.



While shooting wildflowers, wait for the wind to subside. It will help you from having those flowers blurred out.

Shooting an animal? They are unpredictable so take as many shots as you can. You may not get another chance. But look for the animal to face you. Have the sun behind you, wait for the glint in their eye and focus on them. The little details make all the difference in the world.

My point is… It sometimes boils down to a little practice, some planning, lots of shooting, and repeat… just get out there and enjoy yourself. So next time, try a little planning but be open to the possibilities

Wednesday, 12 October 2011

Do you have what it takes to be the next Ansel Adams?

You’ve been taking photos for awhile now… maybe you took some photography courses, you joined a photo club or became a regular at reading tutorials and watching “how to” videos online. Regardless on how you got there, you did, and you are feeling confident in the photos you are producing and sharing with friends and family. Then a family member or friend says, “I want to buy that image from you!”

You sell it and the natural progression begins. People start to wonder if one can make any money at this. The simple answer is, “Yes”. You can start shooting portraits, pets or weddings, you can enter into the world of stock photography or submitting images to calendar or card companies. All are good options, but the downside is they are highly saturated and competitive. The simplest way is to start producing an income by selling prints of your best work. Chances are, you won’t be able to quit your day job, open a gallery and become independently wealthy. But when someone acknowledges your work as art it provides motivation to continue the never ending pursuit of the perfect image.

The Reality Check Time
Before I begin, I am fully prepared to hear that my POV is wrong… but that’s OK… this is my blog. :)~

I really would love to hear people’s opinions. If you disagree with anything I am about to say, sound off and let some aspiring photogs know about your success stories.

OK, here goes, let’s take a little step back be honest with ourselves. There are only a select few people that ever get the kind of recognition and income that would supply you with the life you are probably living now. Leaving the elite photographers like Annie Leibovitz out of the equation, I bet you can count on one hand the photographers you follow that would make the kind of income you would want to make.

Wedding and portrait photographers are a dime a dozen, I live in a town of 100,000 and there are at least 15 of them in my city alone. While the busy ones make a decent income, they are tied to shooting venues. Shooting is only a portion of the workload, there is just as much, or more, time needed to edit. You have to constantly market your company, and quickly you are a slave to shooting venues and your weekends are potentially shot. Not that this is a bad thing if that’s what you want. Just be prepared to put a lot of effort into building this business. And get ready to spend a boat load on the gear you are going to need.

Nature and wildlife photographers comprise the majority of amateur photographers out there. This genre has more enthusiastic participants than all the other type of photographers combined. Your options are selling images, teaching people to take images, or writing a blog to amuse other photographers like I do…

Stock photographers are also numerous, and unless you find the sweet spot for desired photos you really are not going to make any money following that strategy. But hey, I hear rumours of people out there making a couple thousand a month… I have yet to meet one, so I will stick to belief that’s it’s an urban legend like the Loch Ness Monster.

Have I lost you yet? I hope not, read on and let me give you some ideas and suggestions that at least increase your chances of making a good second income from your photography hobby.

Baby Steps…
As I mentioned before, most photographers’ first sales come from a friend or family member. Depending on your relationship with the buyer you may want to consider doing it for free or just covering your printing costs. Your work is your business card, the more people see your images hanging at family members homes, or at local coffee shops, the more your name will be recognizable and you increase your chances of being contacted by a paying customer.

Sign every image. I either sign the back with my web address, or sign on the matte and number the image. Beside any image I hang in a business I ask if I can hang a write up on myself. In this write up I place my website address so people can view more of my work and contact me.

So the first step, saturate the market with your images as best you can.

Here are a few places to think about: (1) local coffee shops, (2) newspaper and fall fair contests, (3) photo sharing sites on the web, (4) give your images framed to your family as gifts.

Create a Plan.
No business ever succeeded without the foundation of a business and sales plan. I am not suggesting you create a full fledged business plan, but have an idea in your mind on where you want to go with this. Then, investigate how and who will help you get there. For example, when visiting restaurants, banks or coffee shops, make a point of looking at the walls to see if they’re in need of art work. Speak with the manager or owner and ask if they would be willing to hang your photographs to decorate their walls at no cost to them. The reciprocal benefit is that you could split any money made if one is sold. It means you’ll need to develop a portfolio to show the decision makers your work. It also means an initial investment by you in terms of time and money, but this should pay off in the long run.

Be Your Own Toughest Critic
Display only your BEST work. Scrutinize your work and get trusted people to give you feedback on each image. It’s better to hang two fantastic prints than ten average ones. Many fine-art photographers introduce only one or two new pieces each year. Some even tell me the ratio of taken pictures to ones that make the portfolio are 5000 photos for that one image they are proud of. Think quality rather than quantity. Your work is your resume.

Website
Many photographers host their own website and sell their work through it. If you decide to pursue this route, keep the site simple and make the ordering of prints easy for the buyer. Potential purchasers don’t want to navigate a multitude of pages to get price, size, shipping, etc., information. Start small but think big!

You have a few options here. You can build your own and host it, or you can use a template website. Or, there are companies that use a combination of both. Its personal preference, so do your homework before you make a decision.

Whatever decision you make, take your time, do it right and create your identity online. This will be your most cost effective marketing tool and can bring you more business than any other method. Investigate “Search Engine Marketing” and “Search Engine Optimization” and talk to your web company about optimizing your site to be search engine friendly.

Always Be Learning
You probably have the same people you shoot with or the same sites you share your images on… and that is great. But I would like to see you challenge yourself. Expand your circle of influence and get introduced to more experienced photographers.

My point here is that you should always learn from better photographers than yourself. Push your boundaries and never be satisfied.

I hope to see your photos hanging in a gallery or gracing the pages of a magazine soon!

Until then, happy shooting fellow photographers!

Kev

Tuesday, 11 October 2011

Bag of rice ... check! Alarm clock set... check! GPS working... check!

As Photographers we tend to be a gadget-oriented group. We buy the latest and greatest advertised gadget, accessory, lens or camera with hopes that it will better our craft. With my head hung in shame I admit that I too have some useless gadgets filling a few drawers and taking up room in my camera bags. By the time I give them away I will probably only have used them once. But I bought them, and, well, I learned the hard way on more than one occasion that it’s not always the gadget that makes the difference in the quality of photo I get. Its the six inches behind the camera and how prepared I was before I got to a location.

As a nature photographer I have learned that the most important pieces of gear to have in your repertoire are not the latest and greatest camera items. The most important things are the items that you should have to protect you and your gear from harm. It’s the practical gear, the gear you learn you need through your own experience and mishaps that makes the difference. Each of these items at one time or another have been the sole reason I had a successful nature photo shoot. The best part, almost every item I listed below is inexpensive and can be bought at any hardware or outdoor store.

A trusted alarm clock(s)
My absolute favorite time to shoot is just at the end of the blue hour. The sun starts to turn blues to purple and the hint of yellow and orange graces the horizon. The next 30 minutes are pure heaven for me. Nothing upsets me more than when a planned pre-dawn shoot is missed because I slept in.

I have two alarm clocks, one on the dresser and one on my blackberry. Both set so I have to physically get out of the bed to turn them off.

Tools, glue and bag of rice
Ever been out and dropped your camera or snapped a piece on your tripod and the whole shoot was a bust? If your answer is no, my response is; “It’s only a matter of time”.

I carry a screwdriver set with hex heads to fit all my tripod screws and I always have crazy glue in a separate bag in case I need to reattach anything.

The bag of rice… well it’s too heavy to carry, but you may want to have one handy back at the house. If you get water in your gear, putting it in a bag of rice is your best chance to suck out any moisture in your camera or in your lens.

DO NOT USE a heat lamp or lamps to try and dry out a camera… use rice, say a lil prayer to the camera gods and have the insurance company’s number handy just in case it doesn’t work.

Insurance Riders
After the last paragraph I figured I would address now. I would suggest you contact your insurance company and discuss having an insurance rider on your camera gear. It is peace of mind that will eliminate a huge headache if anything happens to your gear.

Lay everything you own out on a table, take a photo of all your gear and then list out everything you own. Submit both to the insurance company for their files. This will eliminate any questions they may have that will delay the claim and get you back shooting as fast as possible.

Extra batteries and memory
Imagine being miles from your car, hours from a power source, the elusive snowy owl appears in the field in front of you and you are set to take a series of photos…. Only you can’t… the cold weather has zapped your battery dead or you have no more memory left.

The moral of the story; bring extra batteries and memory cards. I never leave home without 4 memory cards and three fully charged batteries.

A little hint, in cold temperatures keep the batteries inside your coat and keep them warm.

Waterproof boots and hip waders
Some of my best images are taken near or from the water. Sometimes the difference between a good photo and a great photo is perspective. You walk up the west side of a river, the sun is coming up and you wish you were on the east side to capture the golden hour with the sun to your back. The unprepared photographer will shoot the undesirable image from the west bank, while you will have the sun at your back capturing the image the people on the other side wished they were capturing.

Their flying birds of prey will be black silhouettes, while yours will have full colour with a glint of sun in their eye.

A head lamp or flashlight
I hike in the dark in order to be at a location before the blue hour, or leave a location after dusk. A headlamp and and/or flashlight in my camera bag helps me find my way back to my car. There is nothing worse than being caught out in a forest or field without a light source. The light source also is a good way to use as fill light, or for light painting objects like rocks in a water scene with a pre dawn sky.

An assortment of plastic bags and towels
You have invested a lot of money in your gear, so protect it. And a few 5 cent bags will do the trick. They will roll up in your camera bag and can be thrown over your camera equipment fast and efficiently.

Bug spray or a bug net.
Nature is full of bugs that want to eat you for breakfast or dinner… or frankly just be a pest. But why let this stop you from getting that perfect photo. Some of the best foilage and animal photo opportunities are during the height of black fly or mosquito season.

Word to the wise, keep the bug spray away from the camera gear.

A compass and handheld GPS
I am directionally challenged. For this reason I carry a compass when I am out on a location where I have never been before. It helps me navigate fast and allows me to see, at a glance, which way the sun will raise. The GPS is also an awesome tool to mark locations that you see for future locations as well as a handy navigation tool for trekking in and out of a location.

Along the same lines as this is the "Photographers Ephemeris". An awesome desktop and mobile tool all nature photographers should have. Read my review of this product by clicking reading about PHOTOGRAPHERS EPHEMERIS. After you read that click the back button to get back to this article.

Cell Phone
Now that you all know I am directionally challenged and getting lost is not that far out of the question… a cell phone is a must for me. You never know when you need to call the park ranger to come find you, or call your significant other to tell her you are going to be late because Winnie the Pooh’s older brother has you up a tree and is licking his chops.

Outdoor clothing
Rain and windy weather often produce the best photo opportunities. Being prepared with clothing that keeps you dry in the field is a must. These items are the most expensive items on my list, but it doesn't have to be. You can either ask for them as christmas and birthday prezzies, or wait and invest in over time.

Or, for those that embrace comfort over style, swallow your pride and head out to Value Village. A good second hand store will have quality all weather gear at a fraction of the price. At the very least, buy a lightweight, waterproof shell that you can pack in your camera bag.

My usual attire is a weatherproof jacket (second hand store purchased), a ball cap (my lucky ball cap i was wearing when i got a hole in one), layers on top (t-shirt, sweater) and a pair of Columbia pants that turn from full legged pants to shorts in just a few seconds… I also keep a spare jacket, shirt, pants and shoes in my car.

Be a boyscout, be prepared... and happy shooting!

Kev

Download PHOTOGRAPHERS EPHEMERIS

Wednesday, 28 September 2011

Proud of Myself Today

I have written reviews off and on for years. I have reviewed cars and camera gear in my past, and while I do not consider myself a writer, I enjoy teaching... and I have a passion for photography...

Its more than a hobby for me, its a passion...

The perfect job for me, besides the job i have right now; writing reviews on camera gear, writing tutorials, travelling to exotic locations to photograph and running workshops for photographers all over the world.

But today, one small step for man, one giant leap for my photographic ego, I was published for the second time this month.

An article I wrote was published at:

Canadian Nature Photographer

PHOTONews Canada

I am not done here either... many more articles already written, and I hope to have them all published

Thanks to Robert at The Canadian Nature Photographer and Mark at PHOTONews Canada for publishing my articles.

Tuesday, 27 September 2011

UPDATE "Putting the Quotes to the test"

OK, so you read my last post on how I am attempting to put two quotes to the test...

I came away from my first visit bombarded my bugs, unhappy with the location shoots and a sky that didn't co-operate...

Let the investigation begin...

1) found out when the next two full moons are... would like to be down there on those nights.

2) the pesty bugs... I talked to dozens of people, called the local fisherman and found they were shad flies, a late hatch that will be done in a couple weeks when the temperature drops.

3) photographers ephemeris showed me the time in which the moon will be exactly where I want it.

So, my investigation is complete... I am ready to go back for round two!

And while i am there for round two i will ask the owner of that property if i can access the shore behind his house... thay will make round three interesting.

Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Holiday Photos

The holiday season is a great time of the year to take pictures of family and friends… whether its grandpa sleeping off the effects of tryptophan from the 2nd helping of turkey, or little Johnny sneaking into the kitchen to steal a deviled egg before dinner, there is an abundance of photographic opportunities to capture.

Below I have listed a few things to keep in mind while you are at the family gatherings…

Capture everything from a different POV

Since it’s a festive time of year and people will be surrounded with food, snacks, presents etc. oh ya, and that perfectly cooked turkey, you might want to your focus on people instead. If it is slightly higher or lower than the eye level, something that offers a different POV, well IMO, that is a perfect shot.

Compose in the camera

The main subject should be framed properly in the viewfinder. Make sure that the background is not too distracting or there is nothing behind that might ruin the entire picture… something like a bright window, or your favorite uncle is giving you the finger.

Remember your rule of thirds when composing and check your light meter to ensure proper exposure.

Get a Little creative

You are the director of this event, and people like to have their photo taken for the most part… so pose them, direct them into positions… the end result will be far better than just snapping off a few hundred photos… trust me… been there, bought the t-shirt…. It could be as simple as offering a suggestion on what you want to be captured in the pictures.

On the flip side, yes I am speaking out of both sides of my mouth… LOL… you can also take pictures while people are caught unaware you are photographing them… wait… anticipate the moment, then throw off a few frames of your aunt drinking straight out of the gravy bowl before she washes it out.

Lighting The Scene

The celebration is usually indoors so if the room is too dark or if the lighting is too low, put on as many light sources as possible. You can customize the white balance setting so it will match with the main source of light. You can also adjust the digital camera sensitivity mode to get bright and clear shots of the subjects and events. But if you think that the daylight would suffice, open up all the windows and let the sunshine in.

Or, pop open the built in flash or throw on the flash and light the scene using organic lighting and flash lighting…

Best of all… don’t be a camera snob… Include yourself in some images…
All cameras have a delay… and you might own a remote trigger… Nothing is stopping you from setting up the camera on a tripod or on the counter, focusing, framing and running over and posing in a photo or two… show those pearly whites or chase the kids…

Photography is all about capturing the moment… and it’s a festive time of year… go and create images that family members will laugh about for generations to come… just like that old black and white of crazy Uncle Fred wearing a suit with a hula hoop twirling around his waist…

Tuesday, 13 September 2011

New Mentor Program Available at KPEP Photography

MENTOR PROGRAM

Mentor Programs have been a historical method of passing information from one photographer to the next as far back as I remember. For you, the benefit of working with someone more experienced, with a program tailored to your specific goals is a sure way of expediting your learning curve.


The times when I personally learned the most in photography was when I spent quality time with people vastly more experienced than me. Whether it was out in the field, sitting at coffee shops talking, or getting advice on editing... these times were when I learned the most. I don’t care how many books you buy, how many YouTube videos you watch, clubs you join... all that knowledge these things fill your brain with will never come together until you find a mentor to walk you through your journey.


The Program that we create for you will be customized to YOU. In the beginning I will work with you to define your specific goals, identify any areas that need improvement and then, through a series of specifically designed assignments, provide one-on-one personal and telephone consultations and critiques. Together we shall implement a work plan that will accelerate your development as a photographer.


Creating an Individualized Program is important because each person has a different goal, and learns at a different pace. For example, you may be looking at developing a part-time photography business, or maybe you just want to take breathtaking landscape photos to show off to your family and friends. No matter what your goal is, I will work with you to make sure we achieve them together.


Program Options and Cost - There are three completely customizable options available in my Mentor Program to help you define and realize your individual goals.


Three-Month Option

The Three-Month Program option provides for one 2-hour personal session every three weeks plus up to one hour of personal or telephone discussions per month, as well as a final two hour follow-up session after the three months period is complete. Personal sessions will include discussions of specific problems or needs, field sessions, photographic assignments, and critiques - all designed to meet your particular requirements and complete your portfolio.

Three-Month Program - $ 350 (Payment: 50% due upon acceptance. Balance due 45 days after start date.)

Six-Month Option

The Six-Month Program option provides for one 2-hour personal session every three weeks plus up to one hour of personal or telephone discussions per month, as well as a final two hour follow-up session after the three months period is complete. Personal sessions will include discussions of specific problems or needs, field sessions, photographic assignments, and critiques - all designed to meet your particular requirements and complete your portfolio.

Six-Month Program - $ 600 (Payment: 50% due upon acceptance. Balance due 3 months after start date.)

One-Year Option

Program option provides for one 2-hour personal session every month plus up to one hour of personal or telephone discussions per month, as well as a final two hour follow-up session after the three months period is complete. Personal sessions will include discussions of specific problems or needs, field sessions, photographic assignments, and critiques - all designed to meet your particular requirements and complete your portfolio.

One-Year Program - $ 1000 (Payment: 25% due upon acceptance into the program; 25% due 2 months after start date; 25% due 4 months after start date; balance due 6 months after start date

How to Contact Me

Please visit the "CONTACT" page of my website and email me with your contact information. I will respond and set up an initial meeting to discuss what type of workshop that will suit your individual needs best.